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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
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> 4) Just Send It Wall
Welcome to Conditioning
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 17
votes
Routes in 4) Just Send It Wall
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Just Send It S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mud and Guts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to Conditioning S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Eric Horst |
| Page Views: | 3,473 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Oct 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Welcome to Conditioning is a prime candidate for best 12d in the New River Gorge. It features precise bouldery movement on bright orange stone. The moves, which sort of feel like magic tricks, are addictive.
Approach the first bolt with a series of west virginia scramble steps and momentum driven hand movements. Getting past the first crux is height dependent and a bit intimidating. Grab a crimp and a small pocket, sag and then do a massive precision dead point to a mail slot.
From the mail slot a vicious 3 move V6 crux awaits you. Get ready to high step and bear down on some improbable side pulls. If the obvious sequence doesn't work for you consider finger locking with your right hand in the horizontal slot to approach the left side pull. This method requires a lot of flexibility and core tension but proved to be higher percentage for me.
Gain your composure once you're established on the large horizontal rail. Campus right to an interesting mantel and then wander up some easier climbing to the finish.
Approach the first bolt with a series of west virginia scramble steps and momentum driven hand movements. Getting past the first crux is height dependent and a bit intimidating. Grab a crimp and a small pocket, sag and then do a massive precision dead point to a mail slot.
From the mail slot a vicious 3 move V6 crux awaits you. Get ready to high step and bear down on some improbable side pulls. If the obvious sequence doesn't work for you consider finger locking with your right hand in the horizontal slot to approach the left side pull. This method requires a lot of flexibility and core tension but proved to be higher percentage for me.
Gain your composure once you're established on the large horizontal rail. Campus right to an interesting mantel and then wander up some easier climbing to the finish.
Location
There are two routes on the beautiful orange wall. The right one is Welcome to Conditioning.
Protection
5 bolts + anchor. Stick clipping is a good idea. The guidebook recommends clipping a long sling to the first bolt on 'Just Send it' to keep the rope out of your way for the first crux. You make the call, but be mindful of getting your leg wrapped in the rope when executing the first crux.
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