Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Just Send It Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Just Send It S 
Mud and Guts T 
Welcome to Conditioning S 

Welcome to Conditioning 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: ---- on Oct 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Welcome to Conditioning is a prime candidate for best 12d in the New River Gorge. It features precise bouldery movement on bright orange stone. The moves, which sort of feel like magic tricks, are addictive.

Approach the first bolt with a series of west virginia scramble steps and momentum driven hand movements. Getting past the first crux is height dependent and a bit intimidating. Grab a crimp and a small pocket, sag and then do a massive precision dead point to a mail slot.

From the mail slot a vicious 3 move V6 crux awaits you. Get ready to high step and bear down on some improbable side pulls. If the obvious sequence doesn't work for you consider finger locking with your right hand in the horizontal slot to approach the left side pull. This method requires a lot of flexibility and core tension but proved to be higher percentage for me.

Gain your composure once you're established on the large horizontal rail. Campus right to an interesting mantel and then wander up some easier climbing to the finish.


Location 

There are two routes on the beautiful orange wall. The right one is Welcome to Conditioning.

Protection 

5 bolts + anchor. Stick clipping is a good idea. The guidebook recommends clipping a long sling to the first bolt on 'Just Send it' to keep the rope out of your way for the first crux. You make the call, but be mindful of getting your leg wrapped in the rope when executing the first crux.


Comments on Welcome to Conditioning Add Comment
Show which comments
By ----
Oct 17, 2011

This thing seems really hard for 12d. Its probably more like 13a unless you have the perfect body size for the two cruxes. Prepare to get shut down on the first crux if you're short. What you see is what you get. There are literally no intermediates for your hands and very limited footholds.
By David Barbour
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 18, 2013

12d++. Could not figure out how to stand up into that sidepull! Very cool moves on this one.