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5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 23 votes
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Steve Erskine, Hobart Parks, TA Horton 1979 FFA Pete Absolon, Chris Guenther 1983 |
Page Views: | 3,486 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | camhead on Apr 5, 2010 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is a very nice finger and handcrack, with fewer individually hard moves than routes like Linear Encounters or Chasing the Wind. Start on the right of two 30 foot handcracks, up to a ledge, then pull a really cool roof on jams and jugs to get established in the wavering finger crack above. There are a couple different ways to go with different crack systems (most take the right), but both lead to the base of a mini-dihedral. Continue up the steep crack, via good stances, to an ancient pair of rusted bolts (no need to clip these, the gear is awesome and they're super terrible). Above the bolts you'll move through a couple pods, then finish on glory jugs to one of the best topouts at the NRG.
No fixed anchors; although if there were you could just BARELY lower off this with a full 70m rope. Best to belay your follower off trees at the top, then make an easy rap off the lower ground to the left.
No fixed anchors; although if there were you could just BARELY lower off this with a full 70m rope. Best to belay your follower off trees at the top, then make an easy rap off the lower ground to the left.
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