Welcome to Beauty
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Steve Erskine, Hobart Parks, TA Horton 1979 FFA Pete Absolon, Chris Guenther 1983|
|Season: ||morning shade, afternoon sun, best in spring and fall.|
|Page Views: ||977|
|Submitted By: ||camhead on Apr 5, 2010|
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photo creds to Devon from CO
This is a very nice, diverse finger crack, despite its wandering nature. Start in either of two twin handcracks up to a ledge, pull a really cool roof on jams and jugs, and get established in the wavering finger crack above. There are a couple different ways to go with different crack systems, but both lead to the base of a mini-dihedral. Continue up the steep crack, via good stances, to an ancient pair of rusted bolts. It is possible to lower off here if you want to leave a stopper to back up the bolts, but these anchors are pretty sketch. If continuing to the top, move right onto face jugs for another 20 feet and belay from a tree. 70m would be a good idea, but I'm not sure if it is mandatory.
far upstream end of Beauty Mountain, about a three minute walk past the Thunder Buttress/Supercrack area.
A couple pieces of everything. Emphasis on fingers, but some larger stuff for the bottom. #4 to protect the initial roof move. 2 bolts.