Start with a left on a good pinch and a right on an edge. Bump your right hand up a few times to a horribly sharp, 2-finger pocket, then top out on hidden, positive holds.
The arete to right and crack system to left are both off.
Ascend the road-facing face of the prominent, 12-foot boulder right next to Wompatuck Rd. at the Rattlesnake Rocks fire road entrance.
A pad and a spotter are nice, some good backbreakers exist on the left side of the landing.
|Comments on Illegal Arete Extreme
|By Benjamin Mackall|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 29, 2013
I changed the name on this to reflect the route description on Rockclimbing.com posted in 2007. The name comes from the fact that this face/arete is very obvious from the "illegal" fire road pullout on Chickatawbut Road that I am always tempted to park at.
The description mentioned above lists this problem as V3, but I believe that not using any holds on or around the arete improves the climb and makes it solid V4.