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Illegal Arete Extreme 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Benjamin Mackall on May 8, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Ascends the right side of the face. The arete to t...

Description 

Start with a left on a good pinch and a right on an edge. Bump your right hand up a few times to a horribly sharp, 2-finger pocket, then top out on hidden, positive holds.

The arete to right and crack system to left are both off.


Location 

Ascend the road-facing face of the prominent, 12-foot boulder right next to Wompatuck Rd. at the Rattlesnake Rocks fire road entrance.


Protection 

A pad and a spotter are nice, some good backbreakers exist on the left side of the landing.



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By Benjamin Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 29, 2013

I changed the name on this to reflect the route description on Rockclimbing.com posted in 2007. The name comes from the fact that this face/arete is very obvious from the "illegal" fire road pullout on Chickatawbut Road that I am always tempted to park at.

The description mentioned above lists this problem as V3, but I believe that not using any holds on or around the arete improves the climb and makes it solid V4.