|234 page views|
This is the leftmost route on the Welcome Wall. It begins in front of a big tree a little uphill of the other climbs.
My eval: there are 5.10 b/c moves 8 to 12 feet over the bolts, including one longish runout in the middle. Down low around the second bolt is a little tricky in groundfall potential. Up high, the falls are safe, but if you go, youre going to take a big ride. Just breath, there are good holds up there, and the hardest moves are nearer the bolts. The crux is moving off a sharp finger lock to a couple of small sidepulls after doing the runout section in the middle.
PG-13 would be a good warning. Not quite Serious.
There's a ton of lichen and moss on this thing, but most of the climb is out of it. It is still clean enough and scary enough to be a good climb. Just be careful down low around the 2nd bolt.
NOTE: Belay from down the ramp. Don't belay from under the tree. If the leader takes the 20-footer, you don't want to hit your head on the tree or get tangled up in it.
7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The Falcon guidebook should say "sporty" or "old-school" bolting. PG-13
Mar 8, 2010
I don't think anyone climbs this route. Did the route yesterday as my last of the day not knowing what to expect but thinking it would be a nice warm-down 10c (Senora Pass Guidebook rating). I definitely agree with the evaluation above and would add that for 5.10b/c it is technical climbing that will feel harder (at least onsight) and there is pretty much no chalk on any of the holds let alone any key holds. Not that I have a problem with that of course, but it makes finding a proper sequence very time consuming and mentally draining, especially when you are standing 3 feet above your last bolt using foot-holds covered in moss and lichen on a wall that isn't especially steep. The climbing is not like much of the other grotto routes in that the holds are not obvious jugs - ever. Definite ground-fall potential getting to the second clip - heads up.
Sep 19, 2011
I loved this route.. found it to be very thought provoking. Didn't get pumped even though I was on it for a long time - more of a puzzle than anything. Never fell but agree that a fall would be scary in some places.