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 ADVANCED
5. Slabs
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Wag, The T 
Weissners Butress T 
Weissners Dike T 

Weissners Butress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Weissner
Page Views: 1,992
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Start at the obvious left facing corner below the old man's dog. P-1 An inobvious start leads you to the corner and up, avoiding vegetation gain a left leading undercling flake, follow this to the belay. P-2 Move left and up into the actual dike on weissners dike, be careful as it is very loose, move up and right to the belay. P-3 Traverse right over ledges and 3rd class terrain to the top of the old mans dog. P-4 Move up the left hand margin of the indented slab till you can move right and either use the two bolt anchor for 2 indented heads or sling the boulder above it. P-5 Move up and left to a right facing slightly rotten corner with an ancient pin and some tat, continue climbing up till you reach the extreme left hand margin of a large ledge, belay. P-6 Traverse the ledge to the belay under the archival flake, 3rd class. P-7 The archival flake and the classic corner and belay off the old mans safety net.

Location 

Directly under the old mans dog, aim for the second inside corner to the left of the old man's neck. Standard descent trail.

Protection 

Standard rack, lots of slings.


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