Weird Water 

This is the second best 5.7 at Rushmore behind Gossamer. The 5.10 direct start is the best way to go. The 5.2 start is easy, but you shouldn't protect it to avoid heinous rope drag, so be careful clipping the first bolt. Great climb.

I led this route on 07/06/03 and I would tell all 5.7 leaders to beware that one false move and you'll find yourself on 5.9 - 5.10. It's a big face and the bolts are hard to see since they zigzag up the route. Also, I've led Stardancer twice and many other 5.8s and 5.7s in the Needles, including Old #8, Bolts for Bob, Bolts for Bert, Solitaire, Aging Gracefully, Goatskin, Toe Boit, and all of the versions of Waves including the original and a new 5.9 called Bob's Bolts and Anchors? on toprope and Wierd Water is harder than any of them.

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Fun climbing w/exposure. Appropriate route finding will keep this climb as rated; however, the potential to make this harder than needed is very easy to do. You are sure to inadvertently find your way into counltess family photo albums as this climb is highly visible to traffic on the highway who are not shy about stopping, shouting, and waving-trying to get your attention while snapping photos.

I think this is the best 5.7 at rushmore. I myself like the 5.2 start and do it more often than the 5.7 because it is a leisurely climb and has an awesome veiw. Its is most definitely worth the effort.

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First of all thx for the great beta for directions above. Worked out well and don't think I would ever have found the climb without them.

A great route but not your average "5.7" climb. When you combine the necessity of picking out the best line and also the fact that you might not be used to waging how much skin you might be willing to lose if you miss while standing on that slippery crystal this climb can easily become a bit of an adventure. I too have led 5.8 and 9's (and a pretty solid 5.10 a/b leader) in the area that felt easier and safer. That said it is a great route so go for it. Just don't expect a walk up and be solid at the grade. (by the way it is about 25 ft from the last bolt to the anchor and the climbing could still easily go at 5.6 in some areas). Bring a red and yellow camalot and a few smaller nuts or aliens for the beginning crack depending on how much protection you like. Note that is quite a way from where the crack ends to the first bolt so make that last piece a good one!

was up there the other day with a couple friends. having a few ppl there i decided to move on to another. could someone take me up for my first time. i think i just over-thought it all

Best 5.7 at Rushmore in my book; between the exposure and views, it can't be beat. I think the 5.7 rating is very appropriate and had no trouble with the route finding. I guess there could be some confusion with the bolts going directly up the water mark (5.10 - called ?big dripper?) - but stay about 1 yard right of that and the route is a straight forward 5.7 with great exposure. Absolutely love this climb!