Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Mike Engle-1985 Ground Up
Page Views: 11,706 total · 44/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on May 14, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


109 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A great, long climb. Incredible moves, incredible position. This route summits the main rock in the Marker formation. Gets my vote for the best 5.7 in Rushmore!

Finding this route the first time around can be a bit of a chore... Follow directions to the route 'Star Dancer'. As you're looking at the rock, scramble up to the right, passing the first gully on the left, into a small opening / grassy area, and continue to the next gully on the left. At the top of this gully are some large blocks / chockstones.

After surmounting the blocks, continue on to the right until just past the chimney on left (the Gilson Chimney). The various starts for Weird Water begin here. The variations on the start range from 5.2 (traversing up and right to the main line - 2 bolts) to 5.10 (direct start with a couple bolts). The line I'll describe is the trad start and keeps the entire route at 5.7.

After scoping out the direct start, look to the finger-type crack a couple feet to the right. Climb the crack, protecting to your comfort level (stoppers work well). The crack ends at a small shelf after about 25'. I found a nice placement for a 1" cam at the back of the small shelf.

From the shelf, pick out the biggest crystals and move left and up to the first bolt. I found these moves to be a bit nervy. From that point on, continue from bolt to bolt, being careful to follow the bolt line as it moves to the right (direct up the water streak is 'Weird Dripper'). If you pick a direct line between each bolt you can make this climb much more difficult.

After finally reaching the top you'll find a small summit and a two bolt anchor. Enjoy the views, tie your ropes together, and rap down.

Protection Suggest change

A ton of draws (maybe 15 bolts?), plus a couple stoppers and/or small cams for the crack start. Something for the 2 bolt anchor on top.

2 ropes!!

Photos

loading