Weird Science  A4 R

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade V Consensus:  A4 [details] FA:  Paul Gagner, Jeremy Aslaksen - Oct 14-17, 2009 New Route:  Yes Season:  All year sucka! Submitted By:  Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Weird Science in Red...Death of American Democracy...

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Description 

Hike like you are going to the Colorado Ridge but cut left a bit lower than the start of DOAD. Locate the nice flat platform and rack up and do a safety check. Have a beer or two and locate 2 low bolts.

First pitch has a couple bolts to A4 beaking to a couple more bolts to a bolted belay. Don't fall.

Pitch two continues straight up for a ways to a bolt then some thin A3 beak cracks to a four bolt ladder back to the thin stuff to the belay.

Pitch three heads right off the belay up into the "Sand Trap" and keeps trending a bit right to a two bolt belay. No lead bolts on pitch. A3ish

Pitch four steps right off the belay into a calcite seam that pretty much goes straight up to the caprock passing a bolt or two. A3. The rock on this pitch blows. Enjoy!

Pitch five is a short easy pitch to a stance right below the summit choss box. Belay at two bolts. You could combine pitches four and five. From the belay, 3rd class to the summit. Have a smoke. Downclimb. Rap the route.

The rap is killer as all the anchors are bomber and it's a straight shot to the ground. Super fast.

The cool part about this climb is that it ends up on the West Summit...not the main summit you get to after doing the Colorado ridge or DOAD.

Pretty cool.

Location 

South face of the Kingfisher about 40-50 feet to the left of the start to Death of American Democracy.

There is a nice little platform for racking /drinking/lounging and it is possible to belay sitting down so you don't spill your beer. :-)

You can see the first 2 bolts (w/hangers) 15/20 feet up.

Protection 

10 - #1 Pecker
15 - #2 Pecker
15 - #3 Pecker
1 each small cams (we had Aliens up to red)
1 each angle 5/8 to 1 1/4
2 each cams to #2 (yellow) Camalot
1 each cams #3 to #5 Camalot
1 set of stoppers minus the tiny ones
Many Screamers
Goggles


Bring a belay seat/bosun's chair. You will dig it.

Photos of Weird Science Slideshow

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It's all in the name of science. Weird Science.	BETA PHOTO: Topo courtesy of Paul Gagner.	First pitch.
First pitch A4 section.	Start of the third pitch. I bet this will work!	Third pitch. Cruising towards the Sand Trap!SWEET!
Third pitch. Up in the Sand Trap.	Paul busting thin calcite seam moves right off of ...	Paul cruising towards the caprock on the fourth pi...
Jug bunny on the second pitch. Muddy!	Last belay right before the summit. Taken by Jason...	Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen on the summit! WOO...