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Weiner Lake Routes

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Left Side Walls  
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Right Side Walls  

Weiner Lake Routes  


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Location: 61.8128, -148.1665 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jared LaVacque on Sep 28, 2010
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Description 

Alaska's only real concentration of sport climbing. The climbing is on a peculiar igneous formation, that is formed into large overhanging stacked pillars. The most common features are cracks, slopers, edges, pinches and random pockets. The Wookie Wall gets sun until late in the day and is a great early winter/early spring destination, as it site in the sun, for the majority of the day. In the warmer months, the best time to climb at Wookie is the morning or evening, as it is a solar collection furnace during the day, reducing the friction of the rock greatly. . Camping is available, just off the side of the road, for free on the right side of the Glenn Highway going east, just past Weiner Lake. The land owners on Weiner Lake graciously allow campers on their lake, which is mostly private property. The camping is confined to the above mentioned area. Please continue to treat this with respect, to maintain as cohesive relationship with the land-owners as possible. The area can become quite crowded on weekends and holiday weekends especially. Weekdays are the best to avoid a crowd. People are generally friendly, yet quirky. Multiple people using eachothers ropes and gear is the norm for locals here. On the otherhand, pay no attention to locals who have run well over 100 laps on most of the routes and refer to the .1l warm-up as no harder than 5.10a. Being that this is the main sport climbing area of any concentration and quality, running laps and getting beta spewed is common place. Most development to this area is courtesy of Paul Turecki, Grant Walker and friends. Do pay attention here, as rock fall is a potential issue, as is breaking holds on lesser travelled routes. Many holds have been backed-up/reinforced via epoxy. Also beware that the easier climbs tend to be beta intensive, where as the harder routes are more straight forward and obvious.

Getting There 

Take the Glenn Highway east toward Glen Allen after leaving Palmer. It is located approximately 90 minutes from Anchorage. The climbing is located at mile 88 along the Glenn. Park at the 2nd pull-off on the right side of the road, just past Weiner Lake. Look for a faint trail heading up to the cliff. The boulders are off of this trail,east and west before the scree/talus field below the wall.. Continue up the north/south trail to reach the cliff band.

Climbing Season



Weather station 25.6 miles from here

46 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',8],['5.11',19],['5.12',12],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Weiner Lake Routes:
Landmine Area   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Left Side Walls
First Amendment   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   Left Cave
Grainstorm    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   Left Cave
Face the Damage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 115'   Right Cave
Seismic Wave   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Left Cave
Dreams Never End    5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches   Left Cave
Catch a Fire   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Right Side Walls
The Shaft   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 110'   Right Cave
Spangler/Turecki   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Left Side Walls
Break the Chains   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 70'   Right Cave
The Dark Side   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Left Cave
A Stoner Among Us   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 75'   Right Cave
Room To Believe    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Cave
Special Forces   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 3 pitches   Left Cave
Browse More Classics in Weiner Lake Routes

Featured Route For Weiner Lake Routes

Unknown 5.12 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : Right Side Walls
This fun little route climbs hard, bouldery moves trending right though an easy undercling section. Getting to, and clipping, the third bolt could bring you close to the ground in the event of a fall. The anchor on this is two bolts with webbing and biners, it could use a bit of help. If you are top roping this route, leave the last draw clipped to back up the webbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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