BETA PHOTO: Wiener Lake has the highest concentration of hard ...
Alaska's only real concentration of sport climbing. The climbing is on a peculiar igneous formation, that is formed into large overhanging stacked pillars. The most common features are cracks, slopers, edges, pinches and random pockets. The Wookie Wall gets sun until late in the day and is a great early winter/early spring destination, as it site in the sun, for the majority of the day. In the warmer months, the best time to climb at Wookie is the morning or evening, as it is a solar collection furnace during the day, reducing the friction of the rock greatly. . Camping is available, just off the side of the road, for free on the right side of the Glenn Highway going east, just past Weiner Lake. The land owners on Weiner Lake graciously allow campers on their lake, which is mostly private property. The camping is confined to the above mentioned area. Please continue to treat this with respect, to maintain as cohesive relationship with the land-owners as possible. The area can become quite crowded on weekends and holiday weekends especially. Weekdays are the best to avoid a crowd. People are generally friendly, yet quirky. Multiple people using eachothers ropes and gear is the norm for locals here. On the otherhand, pay no attention to locals who have run well over 100 laps on most of the routes and refer to the .1l warm-up as no harder than 5.10a. Being that this is the main sport climbing area of any concentration and quality, running laps and getting beta spewed is common place. Most development to this area is courtesy of Paul Turecki, Grant Walker and friends. Do pay attention here, as rock fall is a potential issue, as is breaking holds on lesser travelled routes. Many holds have been backed-up/reinforced via epoxy. Also beware that the easier climbs tend to be beta intensive, where as the harder routes are more straight forward and obvious.
Take the Glenn Highway east toward Glen Allen after leaving Palmer. It is located approximately 90 minutes from Anchorage. The climbing is located at mile 88 along the Glenn. Park at the 2nd pull-off on the right side of the road, just past Weiner Lake. Look for a faint trail heading up to the cliff. The boulders are off of this trail,east and west before the scree/talus field below the wall.. Continue up the north/south trail to reach the cliff band.
Weather station 25.6 miles from here
78 Total Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',3]
Browse More Classics in Weiner Lake Routes
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Weiner Lake Routes:
Featured Route For Weiner Lake Routes
Room To Believe 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b AK
: Anchorage & South Central A...
: ... : Right Cave
This might be the best hard route at Weiner Lake. The crux of this route is towards the end. Most of the good climbing comes after the 5th or 6th bolt. Climb past 5 bolts, then traverse out right and up skipping the 6th bolt wich sometimes has a draw. After the traverse rest on a big jug. Head left and straight up. Most people find that the last draw is hard to clip and choose to skip it. IMO the last bolt is easy to clip (what do I know). If you traverse out right on a ledge right before the la...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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