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 ADVANCED
Weißenstein

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1. Affäre S 
7up S 
Akku S 
Annelore S 
Baggi ned S 
Beamtenleiter S 
Boulderwandl S 
Buchenleiter S 
Die Wilden Kletterkerle S 
Für Zwietsch S 
Leon S 
Lukas S 
Maral S 
Mon Marie S 
Mondnavigation S 
Nullnummer S 
Panische Zeiten S 
R 7 S 
R3 S 
R9 S 
Rechte Kante S 
Schlingenweg S 
Trepperl S 
Wilde 13 S 
Zwischenfall S 

Weißenstein  


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Location: 49.6346, 11.5316 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,843
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 2, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Red is Eieruhr, Blue is Don't Worry Be Happy, and ...

Description 

The most popular climbing area in Frankenjura. There are almost 50 routes here ranging from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.1 to 5.13a), so there is definitely something for everyone. This is also a very kid friendly place and it even has a nice port-a-potty with a mirror and no stink! Amazing! While there is obviously bound to be some polish on the holds of the most popular crag in the Frankenjura, the routes are all VERY good quality. The rock is very pocketed allowing for lots of great holds.
The left side of the crag is where the easier stuff is. The rock is generally straight up, though some routes are a bit slabby while some others are a bit overhung.
The right side of the crag is quite overhung and is home to some very good 8s (5.11s - Entsafter, Dampfhammer, Wilde 13).
Wolfgang Guellich and Kurt Albert spent some time honing their skills and putting up some routes here. Some good Wolfgang selections are Verlobungsweg (7-), 1. Affäre (7), and Krampfhammer (9). Some good Kurt selections are Panische Zeiten (7+), Dampfhammer (8), and Entsafter (8+).
The name means "White Stone".

Getting There 

Driving here is also relatively uncomplicated. From Nuremberg, take the A9 to the Plech exit (Exit 46). Head towards Plech. After driving through Plech, head towards Neuhaus and stay on this road through Höfen. After leaving Höfen, continue straight for approximately 1.5km until you see a turn-off on the left which is probably full of cars already. You'll also be able to see the rock from here. Drive past the exit of the loop and enter on the Eingang side to park here. Get out and walk straight up to the route you want to do. You may have to wait in line...

Climbing Season



Weather station 23.0 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Weißenstein
The general run of Rechte Kante. You could start on the first two bolts of Buchenleiter if you like, as well.

Rechte Kante 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Europe : Germany : ... : Weißenstein
Very nice beginner's route. Either start where the picture indicates or at the beginning of Buchenleiter. Climb up the arete to the anchors. The name means "Right Arete"....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Weißenstein Slideshow Add Photo
My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!
My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!
The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 minute walk to climbing.
The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 minut...
Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is Beamtenleiter.
BETA PHOTO: Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is Beam...
Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traverses on the right side of the crag.
BETA PHOTO: Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traverses...
A relatively low crowd for Weissenstein.
A relatively low crowd for Weissenstein.
The overhanging nature of the routes on the right side of this crag mean that you can climb here even in the rain (you might get a bit wet at the top though).
The overhanging nature of the routes on the right ...
Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7-), purple is 7up (7), and yellow is Nullnummer (6-).
BETA PHOTO: Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7-),...
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl, green is Annelore, and red is Zwischenfall. <br />
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl, gre...
Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is Akku, Red is Verlobungsweg, Green is R 9, Purple is Mon Marie, Orange is Buchenleiter, and the blue route coming off of Buchenleiter is Rechte Kante.
BETA PHOTO: Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is Akku...
Most of the routes here have some degree of overhang. Here's Aran Durham fighting the pump on Buchenleiter.
Most of the routes here have some degree of overha...
The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißenstein.
BETA PHOTO: The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißenstei...

Comments on Weißenstein Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jul 3, 2011
A little comment on pigtails, since the majority of the routes here use them. If you are going to be running a train on the route (lots of people toproping it), then go ahead and clip two quickdraws in and run the rope through those. If you're just leading, you can either place a quickdraw or two or a locker, or you can plug the rope straight through the pigtail. To do this, take your rope in your hand, reach up and lift the pigtail away from the wall. You will see that on both sides there is an opening. Run your rope through the opening on one side, then the other and your rope will lie safely within the pigtail and it won't come out unless you personally guide it back out or pull your rope through.
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
May 19, 2012
One of the best crags here with a high concentration of classics. Unfortunately it is also very popular and most of the holds are polished which makes the footwork a bit sketchy.