Weißenstein  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  49.6346, 11.5316 Map Page Views:  1,373. Good page? (2 likes)    Administrators:  MPuser10840, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  MPuser10840 on Jul 2, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

A relatively low crowd for Weissenstein.

Description 

The most popular climbing area in Frankenjura. There are almost 50 routes here ranging from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.1 to 5.13a), so there is definitely something for everyone. This is also a very kid friendly place and it even has a nice port-a-potty with a mirror and no stink! Amazing! While there is obviously bound to be some polish on the holds of the most popular crag in the Frankenjura, the routes are all VERY good quality. The rock is very pocketed allowing for lots of great holds.
The left side of the crag is where the easier stuff is. The rock is generally straight up, though some routes are a bit slabby while some others are a bit overhung.
The right side of the crag is quite overhung and is home to some very good 8s (5.11s - Entsafter, Dampfhammer, Wilde 13).
Wolfgang Guellich and Kurt Albert spent some time honing their skills and putting up some routes here. Some good Wolfgang selections are Verlobungsweg (7-), 1. Affäre (7), and Krampfhammer (9). Some good Kurt selections are Panische Zeiten (7+), Dampfhammer (8), and Entsafter (8+).
The name means "White Stone".

Getting There 

Driving here is also relatively uncomplicated. From Nuremberg, take the A9 to the Plech exit (Exit 46). Head towards Plech. After driving through Plech, head towards Neuhaus and stay on this road through Höfen. After leaving Höfen, continue straight for approximately 1.5km until you see a turn-off on the left which is probably full of cars already. You'll also be able to see the rock from here. Drive past the exit of the loop and enter on the Eingang side to park here. Get out and walk straight up to the route you want to do. You may have to wait in line...

The Classics

Featured Route For Weißenstein

Panische Zeiten 5.11a  International : Europe : ... : Weißenstein

One of the classic overhanging, juggy Kurt Albert routes. Very easy to get lost on - so print the picture when you decide to do this. This very pumpy route climbs on nothing but jugs, but due to the million possibilities, you might end up falling anyway. Should you do so, make sure your belayer knows how to do a dynamic belay because slamming into the wall when falling off the top isn't very pleasant. The crux is the pump, but also knowing where to go is key. SPOILER: When at the last bolt, it's...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Weißenstein Slideshow

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The parking area next to Wiessenstein is a 1 minut...	BETA PHOTO: Just 6 of the 20 routes, variations, and traverses...	The overhanging nature of the routes on the right ...
The yellow route is R 3, blue is Boulderwandl, gre...	Most of the routes here have some degree of overha...	BETA PHOTO: Red is Eieruhr, Blue is Don't Worry Be Happy, and ...
BETA PHOTO: Red is Mondnavigation (5+), blue is Trepperl (7-),...	BETA PHOTO: Blue is Lukas, red is Schlingenweg, yellow is Beam...	BETA PHOTO: Yellow is Zwischenfall, Black is R 7, Blue is Akku...
My mom after her first climb at 54 years old!	BETA PHOTO: The gully-like yet climbable section of Weißenstei...