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l. Sleepy Hollow
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

Wegetables I've Never Seen Before 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch and Kevin Bein, 1974
Page Views: 4,380
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Mark Mooradian underneath the final overhang.

Description 

Wegetables is in Sleepy Hollow, at the very far end of the Trapps. Approach by heading straight into the Hollow where the carriage road U-turns right, wandering into the woods for 5 minutes, then heading left up to the cliff. Look for a short-ish wall with a big left-facing corner; Wegetables is left of that, and easily identified by the three overhangs at its top.

Start at a colorful face with a crack, capped by a set of three overhangs.

Follow the thin crack up to a stance, or start by climbing a short corner system just right of this, and then face climb out left and up to a good stance. From the stance, follow a crack and flakes over two overhangs to a final roof and a ledge that is ten feet above. One can belay here and then do the second pitch or belay and then simply walk off left; there is also a rap anchor 20' right at a tree.


Protection 

Small camming units and nuts for the lower crux, a few small to medium cams for the roof system.



Photos of Wegetables I've Never Seen Before Slideshow Add Photo
Into the overhangs. Photo by Tricia
Into the overhangs. Photo by Tricia
Chris leading Wegetables...under the roof. B*d*ss!
Chris leading Wegetables...under the roof. B*d*ss!
Among the overhangs.
Among the overhangs.
Wegetables
BETA PHOTO: Wegetables
The crack that runs through the overhangs provides great opportunities to gear up.
The crack that runs through the overhangs provides...
Jeff nearing the top.
Jeff nearing the top.
The final overhang
The final overhang
Comments on Wegetables I've Never Seen Before Add Comment
Show which comments
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 27, 2010

In a week long trip that I did to the Gunks this was my favorite route. Wegetables has two distinctly different cruxes, solid pro through the roofs, and engaging climbing through out it's entirety. No pulling a crux roof and cruising 5.3 the rest of the way. This climb is full value.

By matthew matera
Jun 1, 2010

The opening moves of this climb before the high step to the flake can be protected with a green black diamond c3 and green wild country micronut.

By Larry S
Aug 15, 2010

Though the rest of the climb's protection is straightforward, gear at the bottom is very thin and difficult to get. Found a #2 peanut, #2 HB brassy real low in the crack, with a #4 BD stopper a little higher up. A 0 TCU is too big. Ballnuts would help. There's a stance to work for this gear from. Good climb other than the tricky gear low.

By Crossing
From: Breinigsville, PA
Sep 16, 2010

This route is really height-dependent, if you are tall and lanky its pretty mellow. As everybody has said the gear down low isn't ideal, but the gear afterwards is great.

By David Stowe
Jul 16, 2011

I led this today for the first time in many years. It was as fun as I had remembered. The gear down low isn't really that bad . You can get a good micro nut in the thin seam while still on great holds. Then after doing one more move you get a bomber cam or nut placement up to the right. I used a green alien today, but if I remember corrrectly a good nut goes there is well. Either placement is bomber. From there the gear is G.

By ericcr
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

the opening moves are pretty safe with a good spot, as well. if your belayer stands on top of the block near the base, their hands are at your knees when you start that sequence.

By kenr
May 15, 2013

Straightforward to set up a top-rope on Tennish Anyone (10c with some interesting moves) after doing Wegetables.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is "G" if you have small wires and micro C3s(or equivalent) to protect the first 10 or 15 ft. After that the climbing is a straightforward but pumpy romp. Too bad you don't have to use the crack more, the one necessary finger-lock is indeed memorable!

By Bryan Sardo
From: Mystic, CT
Oct 21, 2013

I placed a ballnut at the opening crux, downclimbed, and did a bounce test and it popped right out despite it being a good placement. Be weary of the ballnut on this climb! Found a nut and microcam to be the best on the bounce. Otherwise, amazing climb!

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a good TR about 10' right of Wegetables that's fun to mess around on