Wegetables I've Never Seen Before 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Steve Wunsch and Kevin Bein, 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Mark Mooradian underneath the final overhang.
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Wegetables is in Sleepy Hollow, at the very far end of the Trapps. Approach by heading straight into the Hollow where the carriage road U-turns right, wandering into the woods for 5 minutes, then heading left up to the cliff. Look for a short-ish wall with a big left-facing corner; Wegetables is left of that, and easily identified by the three overhangs at its top.
Start at a colorful face with a crack, capped by a set of three overhangs.
Follow the thin crack up to a stance, or start by climbing a short corner system just right of this, and then face climb out left and up to a good stance. From the stance, follow a crack and flakes over two overhangs to a final roof and a ledge that is ten feet above. One can belay here and then do the second pitch or belay and then simply walk off left; there is also a rap anchor 20' right at a tree.
Protection Small camming units and nuts for the lower crux, a few small to medium cams for the roof system.
Among the overhangs.
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BETA PHOTO: Wegetables
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Jeff nearing the top.
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Into the overhangs. Photo by Tricia
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The crack that runs through the overhangs provides...
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Chris leading Wegetables...under the roof. B*d*ss!
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| Comments on Wegetables I've Never Seen Before |
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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 27, 2010
| In a week long trip that I did to the Gunks this was my favorite route. Wegetables has two distinctly different cruxes, solid pro through the roofs, and engaging climbing through out it's entirety. No pulling a crux roof and cruising 5.3 the rest of the way. This climb is full value. |
By matthew matera
Jun 1, 2010
| The opening moves of this climb before the high step to the flake can be protected with a green black diamond c3 and green wild country micronut. |
By Larry S
Aug 15, 2010
| Though the rest of the climb's protection is straightforward, gear at the bottom is very thin and difficult to get. Found a #2 peanut, #2 HB brassy real low in the crack, with a #4 BD stopper a little higher up. A 0 TCU is too big. Ballnuts would help. There's a stance to work for this gear from. Good climb other than the tricky gear low. |
By Crossing
From: Breinigsville, PA
Sep 16, 2010
| This route is really height-dependent, if you are tall and lanky its pretty mellow. As everybody has said the gear down low isn't ideal, but the gear afterwards is great. |
By David Stowe
Jul 16, 2011
| I led this today for the first time in many years. It was as fun as I had remembered. The gear down low isn't really that bad . You can get a good micro nut in the thin seam while still on great holds. Then after doing one more move you get a bomber cam or nut placement up to the right. I used a green alien today, but if I remember corrrectly a good nut goes there is well. Either placement is bomber. From there the gear is G. |
By ericcr
From: Joe Batt's Arm, NL
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a PG13
| the opening moves are pretty safe with a good spot, as well. if your belayer stands on top of the block near the base, their hands are at your knees when you start that sequence. |
By kenr
May 15, 2013
| Straightforward to set up a top-rope on Tennish Anyone (10c with some interesting moves) after doing Wegetables. |
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