Weeping Willow  5.11d X

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Cameron Tague & Steve Levin, April 2000. Submitted By:  Joseph P. Crotty on Nov 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

As the arch terminates onto the green headwall the climb switches from power underclings to crimps with poor feet and big moves. Fight up the face slightly right into a semi hueco. .11d S

Cast straight up the gorgeous face from the hueco culminating in heart throbbing moves just past a tinny sounding hold leaving you to "talk" to yourself. .10b/c X

Location 

From the bottom of the Upper Ramp roughly 50' left of the start of Jules Verne find the sweeping right to left tapering brown half arch. Begin as for Green Willow Wall at the right edge of the half arch in a left facing dihedral and establish a stance on a large flake just before turning the roof of Green Willow Wall. Under cling the arch leftwards until it merges with a green face and climb up and slightly right to a large pseudo hueco. Climb straight up 30' from the hueco then veer slightly left and continue on to the belay at the end of the crux upper pitch of Jules Verne. Finish on Jules Verne or one 60m rap back to the Upper Ramp.

Protection 

SR with double sets of smaller technical cams. Bring along a #3 Big Bro if you really want to create the illusion of pro at the hueco.