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 ADVANCED
Three Graces
Routes Sorted
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East Face/Three Graces TR 
Weenis Route S 
Window, The T 

Weenis Route 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson and Bob D'Antonio, 1983
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Newton on Jan 21, 2012

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Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the line of three pins and then over the small roof/bulge to the top of the west fin of Three Graces. The 5.11a crux can be avoided by lassoing the 2nd pin with a sling and staying to the left (5.10). Tying the pin off short may be a good idea anyway: it sticks out a fair amount from the rock, and the ring is rusted solid at a cross-loaded angle. Pulling the bulge direct felt 5.11a-ish, moving left and mantling into the large hueco is 5.10.

Since this route is rarely climbed, expect dirty and crumbly holds. It is a bold and scary route.

Location 

Follow the obvious 3 pins on the west face of Three Graces. There are no anchors at the top of this climb. (Rolofson's guide mentions a large horn that can be used as an anchor, but I couldn't find one. There is a bulge up top that could perhaps be slung with 15-20 feet of webbing, but you'd have to leave it behind to rap down, which is a no-no at GotG.)

Finish on the 5.2 The Window to a 2 bolt/2 pin anchor with chains at the top of the formation and rap down either side (use a 60m rope for the west side). Weenis is very difficult to clean on rappel.

Protection 

3 old pins, no anchor. Small cams might offer pro under the small roof, but that would be redundant to the 3rd pin. If you finish on The Window, some small cams and a set of nuts might come in handy if you don't want 60 feet of runout to the top (5.2 X).


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