Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Refrigerator Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace 
Breakaway 
Grape Nuts 
Greased Lightning 
Kisses Don't Lie 
La Cierta Edad 
Pork Soda 
Unfinished Symphony 
Weenie Juice 

Weenie Juice 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten, Wendell Broussard, Sal Mamusia, Lynn Cronin. 1983
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: Matt Kuehl on Aug 28, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Weenie Juice 5.10a

Description 

A great pitch with some funkadelic moves through many different sizes. Although the rock is pretty clean-cut, this crack isn't exactly a straight forward corner and you may find yourself doing strange things both painful yet satisfying. I thought the highlight of this route was the OW flare but this route is continuously throwing in something different when you least expect.


Location 

Right of the Refrigerator Wall.

Approach: Continue hiking upstream after the trail drops down into the wash. Look for a trail leading uphill on left towards the arch. Bushwhack your way up to a bushy ledge, then gain the route by scrambling 4th class for another 40-50 feet to a ledge with a small stump. Rope/rack up here, then continue climbing another 25 feet until you reach the crack via traversing left on a small foot ledge

Descent: 2 60m ropes will get you down off a nice bolted anchor


Protection 

Single Rack with doubles of #4, #5, and #6 Camalot or equivalent



Comments on Weenie Juice Add Comment
Show which comments
By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 29, 2012

Amazing pitch. I took triples on the big stuff and singles on the rest. Wendell says the weird bolt is a retrobolt. Burns a fair bit of time on the approach/descent, but one of my favorite red rock cracks. Anchor was replaced last year, you're welcome, Offtards. :)

Five stars.