|425 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten, Wendell Broussard, Sal Mamusia, Lynn Cronin. 1983|
|Submitted By: ||Matt Kuehl on Aug 28, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Weenie Juice 5.10a
A great pitch with some funkadelic moves through many different sizes. Although the rock is pretty clean-cut, this crack isn't exactly a straight forward corner and you may find yourself doing strange things both painful yet satisfying. I thought the highlight of this route was the OW flare but this route is continuously throwing in something different when you least expect.
Right of the Refrigerator Wall.
Approach: Continue hiking upstream after the trail drops down into the wash. Look for a trail leading uphill on left towards the arch. Bushwhack your way up to a bushy ledge, then gain the route by scrambling 4th class for another 40-50 feet to a ledge with a small stump. Rope/rack up here, then continue climbing another 25 feet until you reach the crack via traversing left on a small foot ledge
Descent: 2 60m ropes will get you down off a nice bolted anchor
Single Rack with doubles of #4, #5, and #6 Camalot or equivalent
|By Killing In The Name Of|
Aug 29, 2012
Amazing pitch. I took triples on the big stuff and singles on the rest. Wendell says the weird bolt is a retrobolt. Burns a fair bit of time on the approach/descent, but one of my favorite red rock cracks. Anchor was replaced last year, you're welcome, Offtards. :)