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Wednesday aid climbing slc

Original Post
l grace · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 10

hey all. weird request: i have wednesday to practice some aid climbing. all my climbing partners are working during the day. anyone who is free want to get out locally and practice using aiders and jugging a fixed line? not the funnest thing in the world but i have a climb coming up and i need the practice. open to suggestions on some easy aid climbing routes, too. let me know if you're interested in getting out or just have a good suggestion.

BJB · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195

I'm not in SLC right now, but I can tell you some places you could go and practice aid.

I'm not quite sure what you are trying to practice. It sounds like you're getting ready for the Darren's Utah Climbing Club trip, and if that's what you're doing, I'm assuming that you're primarily looking for a place to practice jugging and using the step ladder things (atrieas or whatever they're technically called).

If you're looking just to practice aiding your way up a bolt ladder, the first pitch of Bad Bananas on the Bad Bananas wall is exactly that: a bolted aid pitch. This would also allow you to set up the line for jugging. There is also a route up the middle of the Bolt Slab in Rock Canyon called Meadow Muffin. It is also a bolt ladder but I think there may be a bolt missing in the middle of it that requires some creativity to get by. It can also be easily toproped so that you practice aiding on top rope if you aren't confident yet. You could also easily aid the Green Monster Crack on the Green Monster Slab or the Main Crack on the Ed and Terry Wall, but to be clear, there are no bolts on either of those. If you really wanted to just practice jugging, one of the easiest places to do that is to climb Simple Simon on the Superbowl Wall (bolted, 11b, really steep. You could aid it if you needed to bc the bolts are so close together) , and rig a rope off of those anchors. That will leave your line hanging completely in space, and you can jug up that.

I also know there's quite a bit of aid in Little Cottonwood, though the only aid I have done there was the Schoolroom Roof. It is actually pretty cool, and it too is a piton ladder, but it is a piton ladder that traverses out of a massive roof. It's still C0 like the other routes I've described, but the traversing nature of it makes it a bit difficult from a physical, not a technical perspective. Also, you have to be able to trad climb an easy pitch to get to it, and you have to be prepared to transition from aiding to free climbing to finish up the school room roof. It was a cool and memorable climb though.

l grace · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 10

far from a climbing club, but that's funny i came across as such a gumby. thanks for the information!

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Well, it's not quite aid, but I have Wednesday off and was planning to spend it in LCC on routes. A friend of mine is planning to show up in the afternoon, but I wouldn't mind getting started mid/late morning.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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