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Isles in the Sky
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Route 1202 
Safety Dance 
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Wedlock 
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Unsorted Routes:

Wedlock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982
Page Views: 2,236
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Mark Collar following the thin splitter of Wedlock...

Description 

This is a short splitter finger crack. It ends on a large chockstone 50' off the deck.

Approach: scramble into the corridor behind Bird of Fire. Walk through this corridor and double back into a similar, parallel corridor behind it.


Protection 

thin



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Me on wedlock.
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By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 25, 2003

Wedlock can also be approached by walking east around the Isles In The Sky formation on an established trail to the south side and scrambling over boulders up an east to west running gully into the corridor. Wedlock is an excellent finger crack climb on sound rock but I would give it 2 out of 3 stars because it is relatively short (3 out of 5 stars).

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Fantastic splitter that inexplicably gets no stars in Vogel. A little short, but it is Josh, and there's no rambling "filler" it's all quality. Ends on the giant chockstone, while the logical ending would have been to go another 15ft up the now bottomed out pro-less "crack" to the top. There's no gear available after the chockstone though, and without placing a bolt in the last stretch it would have been exciting to say the least.

Unless you're already going to be at Bird of Fire or the Isles Corridor, approach as per Vern's directions above.

Great climbing, mostly fingers, but takes plentiful gear up to #1 camalot with emphasis in the .4 and .5 camalot size. At some point there were some "fixed" rap slings on chickenheads on the chockstone, those slings were laying at the base yesterday, so walk off/downclimb the skier's right side of the chockstone toward the smooth chocolate patina wall and into a sort of gulley/corridor formed by that wall and the chockstone. It leads directly back to the base of the route.

By snowey
Apr 27, 2009

Awesome Route and BEST RAPPEL AT JOSHUA TREE!!!

The scramble off the chockstone looked a bit sketchy so we simul-rappelled off either side of the chockstone. The chockstone is fully suspended so your rappel is completely free hanging.
If you are not comfortable with this technique, you can lower the first person and have them stay tied in and function as a counter weight while you rappel off the other side on a single strand.

By Richard Shore
Nov 19, 2012

Quality, thoughtful moves from the moment you step off the deck until you hit the chockstone. Much more challenging than initial appearances might suggest. The finger locks are never very good, so you really have to tweak and milk the jams. Fortunately, the lip of the crack is a bit flared, allowing for solid left-toe jams. Don't get suckered into liebacking out left - my partner did and he was never able to get back into straight-in jamming, which resulted in unnecessary flailing.