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(4) Music Hall
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Nancy's Attempt T,S 
Nut Pitch, The T 
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Undercling Jam S 
Wedding Route T,S 

Wedding Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011

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D. Kuo nears the finish ledge

Description 

A series of broken cracks that merge about three meters up on the right side of Music Hall reveal the start of Wedding Route. Getting off the ground and up to the shallow right-facing dihedral is the crux. Beyond this the climbing is about 5.5. Follow the dihedral, with intermittent horizontal cracks, until it disappears, then continue up through blocky bands and beautiful quartzite patches towards the large, obvious ledge. This route will have endless traffic on any kind of decent weekend day, so either get here early or prepare to stand in line.

This route can easily be done on trad gear, and makes for a fantastic way to learn. A stronger leader might want to pre-place some gear to protect the first few moves, or just clip the bolt. The rest of the route has tons of gear options.

From the anchors at the big ledge, you can continue to the top via a 5.4 ramp (I call it The Honeymoon Extension) or up the juggy overhanging face via Small Triangle more aptly translated as "The Mistress".


Location 

Approach as for Music Hall. After you dip down towards the sea, passing under the Whale's Head, and rise back up, you will see the large alcove of Recital Hall about seven meters above the large platform. Wedding Route starts just to the left of this. Or, the route farthest to the right on Music Hall wall. Faces northeast.


Protection 

Bolts (2006)
Gear to 3"



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