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(4) Music Hall
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Wedding Route 

Wedding Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 3, 2011
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D. Kuo nears the finish ledge

Description 

A series of broken cracks that merge about three meters up on the right side of Music Hall reveal the start of Wedding Route. Getting off the ground and up to the shallow right-facing dihedral is the crux. Beyond this the climbing is about 5.5. Follow the dihedral, with intermittent horizontal cracks, until it disappears, then continue up through blocky bands, grassy ledges, and beautiful quartzite patches towards the large, obvious ledge. This route will have endless traffic on any kind of decent weekend day, so either get here early or prepare to stand in line.

This route can easily be done on trad gear, and makes for a fantastic way to learn. A stronger leader might want to pre-place some nuts to protect the first few moves, or just clip the bolt. The rest of the route has tons of gear options.

From the anchors at the big ledge, you can continue to the top via a 5.4 ramp (I call it The Honeymoon Extension with an optional mantel onto a grassy ledge or climb around a corner to the left and traverse back right. Gear to 1"

You can also take a more challenging line (5.8/9) to the same sling anchor. The name of this extension, called Small Triangle, actually means "a husband's mistress" in colloquial Mandarin. There is a big triangular roof to the right of the first pitch anchors. You must pass this vertical face gracefully to reach the 小三. Gear to 2"

The anchor for the second pitch is currently NOT RECOMMENDED FOR RAPPEL! Avoid the topout until I can get a new sling anchor up there.


Location 

Approach as for Music Hall. After you dip down towards the sea, passing under the Whale's Head, and rise back up, you will see the large alcove of Recital Hall about seven meters above the large platform. Wedding Route starts just to the left of this. Or, the route farthest to the right on Music Hall wall. Faces northeast.


Protection 

Bolts (2006)
Gear to 3"

Equalized anchor recommended for top-roping



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