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Wedding Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boltless Baetylus T,TR 
Deranged Sailor T,TR 
High Tide Crack T 
Just Face It... T 
Lost Sailor T 
Low Tide Crack T 
North Face (Direct) T 
Pandiculation TR 
Psycho Path T,TR 
Shellfish Roof T 
Terete ArÍte T,TR 
Tim's Jam aka Zig Zag T 
Wedding Night Lingerie T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wedding Night Lingerie 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Feb 16, 2008

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Thin crack, up desperate bulges with wild moves, often wet and shady.


Wedding Night is located on the southern of two pinnacles that are just north of Wedding Rock proper. Wedding Night Lingerie and High Tide Crack ascend hidden cracks on the north face, accessed from the notch. Scramble down below the east face at low tide and then up 4th into notch. Looking west the routes are on your left.


Lots of small pro, cams.

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By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 11, 2014

I climbed High Tide Craxk and had trouble finding this route. Does this have the same start, then traverse left where high tide goes right?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 11, 2014

Way to go getting on this these routes EvanWish! Great route, eh?

Yes, very dry conditions are essential.

Yes, WNL . . . hmmnnn... my memory is foggy, but left sounds right.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 12, 2014

I'm not resting till they're all done.. I only wish I had bought a yearly pass to the park!

A few things about High Tide Crack for those interested in checking it out; the book shows the "scary" traverse right to Low Tide Crack and gives it the R rating for that, the traverse is really only 5.8 and only about 10 feet. If you've reduced your rope drag its probably the least scary part of the route. On top rope I finished the route by following the arÍte six feet left of Low Tide Crack. It would be a shame to not do the arÍte!! As for pro you can run out the arÍte with the two available placements, or you can just traverse right and place gear in the crack every once in a while).
By Evan Wisheropp
Sep 28, 2015

I still only see High Tide Crack, still can't find this one. There's a micro-seam on the east face above the ledge. Is that it?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
5 days ago


I thought the two routes were pretty distinct; I know he led the harder one of the two, and like both of them, we TR'd 1st, pre-placed pro. (pins, etc.)for the lead... His lead was harder, I think, so . . . one was really in the notch, between the pinnacles, the other was easterly, closer to the coast...

Anyway, bolt that HT Direct - likely the natural line, if you are so inclined; heck, bolt where needed on the HT crack route too!

BTW, during that time, I also led an easier route on the pinnacle to the north, which I'd thought had never been ascended, only to find old slings/rusty bolt?(I forget)at the top...I recall pounding pins on the way up...
By Evan Wisheropp
5 days ago

Ah!! I think I've got it figured out now. Perhaps WNL is actually the crack going up the southeast side of the northern pinnacle from the notch. There is an old pin and sling halfway up after two parallel finger cracks.

Sadly bolting's still not allowed in the park for some odd reason.. otherwise I would have bolted Doozy and Pandiculation already. HT Direct is wild!

I think that easier route on the northern pinnacle you're mentioning is listed as "Sea Wolf" 5.10b in the Bigfoot Guide. The pins are still in the crack, and actually don't look too bad. The piton anchor on the summit is rusted out though. Supposedly to the left of that route is "Nautilus" 5.9.

THANKS for sharing!!
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
4 days ago

Naw, they were both on the South Pinnacle.

(Amazing though, that climbers in the 60's & 70's were on both these things around the same time as the FA's on Ceremonial, California Crack, etc.)

I'm waiting for his reply about what he recalls...but Richard's memories might be more or less foggier than mine...it might have been that after leading High Tide Crack, I set the TR for WNL, and placed pro on the rap, and after starting HTC, we did indeed diverge from it to get to the top...
By Evan Wisheropp
3 days ago

Well, I'll give it a closer look next time I'm on the southern pinnacle! (I'll be making it soon.. I have a problem with curiosity eating at me..)
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