|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Mar 2, 2013
There are so many routes that start at the same spot of the Clocktower that finding the "correct" line for this can take some figuring out. For my first few ascents of this route, I was actually doing something that isn't listed as a route or even a variation in any guidebook.
The route Diagonal starts at the same place, but traverses across the wall through the thin hands crack (10d).
The route East Arete starts just around the corner to the right, pulls an overhang, and continues up through easier ground to the ledge, staying on the corner the whole time.
This route begins just below the fins and cracks that are the most obvious features of the Clocktower east face. If you follow the more continuous crack on the left side of the overhang, the route is 10a. It's really only one move. But if you stay about five feet to the right, essentially starting as for Diagonal, but not straying right onto East Arete, then you are doing what can only be called a variation, I'll call it Wedding Night. It's probably more like 10c/d, as it is continuously overhanging, and the crux comes from pinching the slopey fins... very little jamming to be had. Just before the ledge, you can step right, or do a direct finish of essentially a single move. This variation is, in my opinion, the best option.
Save your #3 for just above the ledge.