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Sunshine Wall
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Wear Cattle 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1987
Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Jan 16, 2009

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On the crux slab.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin by climbing the crack for approximately 35 feet. The crack curves to the left and this section is about 5.8. Look up onto the slab above and locate the 2 bolts leading across the slab. Step right onto slabby face holds and follow the line past the aformentioned bolts. After climbing through a slabby crux, you will gain a rail leading right and into a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Climb up this dihedral until you can face climb right and up to gain the anchor.


Location 

This is the first crack to the left of the Standard Route.


Protection 

Single set to #2 Camalot, including RPs.



Photos of Wear Cattle Slideshow Add Photo
Fun route.
Fun route.
About to head up the slab to the first bolt.
About to head up the slab to the first bolt.
Going up the left-facing dihedral near the top.  Bring your RPs and micronuts for this section.
Going up the left-facing dihedral near the top. B...
Comments on Wear Cattle Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jan 16, 2009

There appears to be a 2nd pitch....obvious because of the bolts leading up from the anchor. Anyone know more?

All bolts are bomber on this route, including the rap equipped anchor.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jan 17, 2009

My old book lists this climb on the topo as "Past Tense", 10a, but the name and first ascent is listed correct in the back. ??

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 17, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I have seen it named both Past Tense and Wear Cattle. You can continue up the left angling crack past a single bolt for a nice 5.9 pitch. I think it is a stretch calling Wear Cattle a 9+ though feels more like 5.10 to me...and it might warrant a R rating....

The second pitch is a route I put up called Coppertone, named for the lichen encountered traversing to the top of P2 of the Standard route. Lower end 5.12 moves, and can be linked with the first pitch for a nice outing.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2009

We named it Wear Cattle. Funny how people will make up their own names for established routes, then publish them.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jan 18, 2009

FA info added...thanks Kirk.

Kevin...your "second pitch" looks killer. I'll have to go back and give it a whirl. Does it end at the roof?
One of these days you and I should rope up.

josh

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

It pulls the roof on the right, same as Standard Route.