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Spiney Ridge
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20th Century Man S 
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Damn Right I've Got the Moves S 
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Stone of Ignorance S 
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Travis is Sole King S 
Tree Trimmer S 
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 
Unsorted Routes:
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Weapons Of Mass Arousal 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Jerad Friedrichs on Nov 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jerad at the crux.

Description 

This is an outstanding route well worth the effort. It is rather void of the typical piss Shelf holds and will tax your body, not your fingers. The crux starts with the first 2 bolts and can be quite a reach for those that are shorter. To follow are a few strenuous lieback moves to a really good flake system. Be careful here, I can see this block coming off one day. An almost no hands rest awaits before fighting the pump to the top on good holds. This route will be a classic with more traffic.

Location 

This is the second route from the end of Spiney Ridge in between Quoting Yoda and De Gaulle Syndrome.

Protection 

11 bolts. This climb is well-protected.


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By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 6, 2013

Gets 12d/13a in the new guidebook. Not sure what grade is true, felt pretty hard for 12c.
By Thays
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I got on Head Cheese right after this and compared to that, I definitely agree with the 12b/c rating.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2015

Great route! Needs to clean up a little bit with some more people on it, but I would give it classic status. The bottom is a bit chossy, but the rock quality improves with every bolt clipped. From the rest at the ledge, the white stone on the upper head wall is gorgeous, and the moves are cool. I think 12b/c is spot on. I thought the route was much easier than Ejection Seat, Sparkle in the Rain, Surreal Estate, the French Are Here and other area classics. Definitely nowhere near the difficulty of say Head Cheese. If you're short, the start could pose some problems.... Great fun!
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