Weak and the Weary
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This climb is pretty cool, though it may be awkward at times. It's worth it. The first half of P1 teases you into thinking it will be great cams the whole way. As San Juan choss goes, it's usually another story. With creative gear placements, you get by. The crux of P1 is pulling the interesting roof protected by a LA or KB, stoppers, etc. We belayed at the ledge soon after off of KBs.
P2 starts off steep, but soon you mantle onto a ledge and climb another easier vertical groove only to mantle again. This mantle required trimming a bush for a few minutes that was overhanging the groove. The last part is a small headwall with no pro. There is a groove full of bushes on it. I climbed a little right of them with a move or two of 5.8?ish. Don't fall, would be pretty ugly. That being said, the moves aren't hard and the rock ain't bad on that section.
The route is worth the climb.
The route is located in the slot of Chock Up Another One on the right-facing wall. It is slightly uphill from M6 Corner and slightly downhill from Chockstone Chimney.
LAs, KBs, baby angle, a standard mixed rack. We used a #5. We came down Chock Up Another One. I almost left the LA in the P1 roof, but it wasn't good enough to leave.
Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.
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