Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Blood and Spit T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Left) T 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Weak and the Weary 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M5+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c M5+ [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime you get the tools out
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Noah8000 on Feb 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is pretty cool, though it may be awkward at times. It's worth it. The first half of P1 teases you into thinking it will be great cams the whole way. As San Juan choss goes, it's usually another story. With creative gear placements, you get by. The crux of P1 is pulling the interesting roof protected by a LA or KB, stoppers, etc. We belayed at the ledge soon after off of KBs.

P2 starts off steep, but soon you mantle onto a ledge and climb another easier vertical groove only to mantle again. This mantle required trimming a bush for a few minutes that was overhanging the groove. The last part is a small headwall with no pro. There is a groove full of bushes on it. I climbed a little right of them with a move or two of 5.8?ish. Don't fall, would be pretty ugly. That being said, the moves aren't hard and the rock ain't bad on that section.

The route is worth the climb.

Location 

The route is located in the slot of Chock Up Another One on the right-facing wall. It is slightly uphill from M6 Corner and slightly downhill from Chockstone Chimney.

Protection 

LAs, KBs, baby angle, a standard mixed rack. We used a #5. We came down Chock Up Another One. I almost left the LA in the P1 roof, but it wasn't good enough to leave.


Photos of Weak and the Weary Slideshow Add Photo
Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.
Erik on P1 of Weak and the Weary.

Comments on Weak and the Weary Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -