We Got Fun and Games
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, 2-4-2006 |
Page Views: | 906 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | jason seaver on Feb 19, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Excellent 2 pitch route with a moderate first pitch on bullet stone, an exciting crux pitch 2, and quality crack-climbing throughout.
From the start (in the splitter through a bulge just right of the horizontal pine tree) head straight up the beautiful slab linking left-facing, corner features and cracks before angling left, before the biggish roof. This leftward traverse gains access to the BIG, left-facing, corner system that leads to the BIG roof in the center of the cliff. Belay on the slab left of the big corner.
From the belay, climb the big, left-facing, corner through the big roof (easier than it looks). Above this roof is a slab. Angle left across the slab to a pair of twin cracks that split the vertical wall above. Unfortunately they don't extend all the way down to the slab. This gap presented the mental crux for me. Get some RPs in the bottom of the cracks, and climb up into the one on the right. After the crack slabs out and turns into a right facing corner, follow it up to a bulging flake crack on the left wall of the dihedral. Crank out this bulge to another slab with a crack in it. Follow the crack to an easy leaning corner and the topout.
Descend by scrambling off to the East.
From the start (in the splitter through a bulge just right of the horizontal pine tree) head straight up the beautiful slab linking left-facing, corner features and cracks before angling left, before the biggish roof. This leftward traverse gains access to the BIG, left-facing, corner system that leads to the BIG roof in the center of the cliff. Belay on the slab left of the big corner.
From the belay, climb the big, left-facing, corner through the big roof (easier than it looks). Above this roof is a slab. Angle left across the slab to a pair of twin cracks that split the vertical wall above. Unfortunately they don't extend all the way down to the slab. This gap presented the mental crux for me. Get some RPs in the bottom of the cracks, and climb up into the one on the right. After the crack slabs out and turns into a right facing corner, follow it up to a bulging flake crack on the left wall of the dihedral. Crank out this bulge to another slab with a crack in it. Follow the crack to an easy leaning corner and the topout.
Descend by scrambling off to the East.
Location
The right side of the crag extends lower down the hillside. The base of the cliff here is on an obvious lower tier. There is a small pine tree growing nearly horizontally out of the cliff, and a small bulge with a crack running vertically through it just to its right. The route starts here.
0 Comments