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Way Rambo
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Way Rambo 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass
Page Views: 16,666
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Mar 12, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (121)
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the first hand traverse

Description 

Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.


Protection 

The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).



Photos of Way Rambo Slideshow Add Photo
CT redpointing Way Rambo.
CT redpointing Way Rambo.
Ian trying to get the on-sight.
Ian trying to get the on-sight.
Zach on Way Rambo!
Zach on Way Rambo!
Polly, approaching the first hand traverse.
Polly, approaching the first hand traverse.
Nate catching a breeze on this easy climb
Nate catching a breeze on this easy climb
The final traverse, and from the looks of it the most difficult moves on the route for Polly.
The final traverse, and from the looks of it the m...
casey n trying hard
casey n trying hard
Fighting the burn, Chris draws "fist blood" before reaching the anchors in honor of the namesake route. "I want, what they want and what every man who came over here and spilled his guts, once, for our country to love us as much as we loved it, that's what I want." -John Rambo (retired SF operations commando, drifter)
Fighting the burn, Chris draws "fist blood" before...
Couldn't stick the final mantle.  Went for the ride.
Couldn't stick the final mantle. Went for the rid...
One of the several .75 Camalot placements on Way Rambo.
One of the several .75 Camalot placements on Way R...
Polly, above the first hand traverse and getting ready to gun it for the second.
Polly, above the first hand traverse and getting r...
Megan on Way Rambo.
Megan on Way Rambo.
the middle, thin hands section
the middle, thin hands section
First hand traverse.  Photo by Justin Wilcox.
First hand traverse. Photo by Justin Wilcox.
Rambo heads up Chris Dawson Way in Indian Creek...wait a minute...strike that..reverse it
Rambo heads up Chris Dawson Way in Indian Creek......
the off-fingers/thin hands crux
the off-fingers/thin hands crux
Megan on the first horizontal traverse.
Megan on the first horizontal traverse.
Alf on Way Rambo
Alf on Way Rambo
Dave Chew
Dave Chew
Comments on Way Rambo Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 29, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 17, 2005

Ahhhhh... gotta love Indian Creek grade creep.

By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

Does anyone know what time of day this particular route goes into the sun? I'm not sure but it seems to face more south than the other routes here.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think that the grade is size dependant, as IC always is. Big enough fingers and the crux is not bad, small enough hands and maybe that's OK too, but boy, those would have to be very small hands. The crux was a narrow offset just below the last traverse, a loose 1.5" crack. It spit me off.

The last traverse was bomber enough all the way to the finish that I more or less campused that section to the chains on my second try at the route, even though tired.

Regardless, I thought that this route was hard enough to be 12-, as I fell *following it* although I flashed a few 11+/12- on the same trip. Owch.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

fun climbin. striking line.

By Rob Dillon
May 31, 2006

Don't miss this one.

By Gordon Douglass
Jun 12, 2006

Hello - The first free ascent of "Way Rambo" was done by Steve Petro and myself in about 1990 or so. About the same time we did the FFA of "Slice and Dice".

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Mar 18, 2007

Gear Beta...In camolots....2 yellows, 3 reds, 3 green, one .5 for first horizontal (if you dont want to swing on the fall)

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jul 4, 2007

Quite possibly the easiest 5.12 ever, even easier than the "new" Slot Machine.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008

At some point routes become so good that they reach a status of 'potentially best climb in the world'. Way Rambo is to that end, where someone could easily argue that some other climb is 'better' but it's so subjective at that point. At the very least, this is one of the most classic lines I have ever been on!!!

CL

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010

Alf says this one is 5.11 FYIW :)

By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Apr 10, 2012

does alf have little girl hands?

By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Sep 30, 2012

A good example of a classic IC splitter that's getting loved to death. You can't blame people for wanting to get on this striking line, but the blown out pods, scratched-off varnish, and rounded green-camalot jams attest to the fact that we can wear out the rock in just a few short years. If you do get on this route, perhaps forgo the tape and multiple TR burns,

By Ryan Z
Dec 9, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Hahaha ^ Alf does not have little girl hands. Rather big hands at that.

By hanshan
From: Canada Mofuga
Dec 29, 2013

While this climb would've once been a thing of beauty, in its current damaged condition I'd say the only worse climbs in the creek would be incredible hands and maybe generic crack.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Dec 29, 2013

get off the namesake rout of the cliff ... an get off the popular walls an go find some crisp 5 star routs... crisp like Wiggins 1, wiggins 2, Six Star crack, Thank God for Pods, Crank Case, an finely the most crisp splitter at 5.12 in the creek Sacred Cow, Way Rambo is a great climb "but" it get's alot of traffic? as is the same case with Incredible hand crack...