Way of Life 5.11b/c
| 847 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Ivo Ninov and Dave Griffith |
| Submitted By: | Josh Harding on Apr 8, 2011 |
| |
Looking pumpy already!
Add Photo Printer View
Description Climb up 5.7 ramp to six bolts that traverse out right for 30 ft. Straight forward movements till the end, beware of loose blocks and grit. Distinctly uncharacteristic of JT climbing, worth doing. [A slightly harder variation can be done at the last bolt - mountainproject.com/v/alternate-finish/107870426.]
Location Located on the far left end of the North face of Snickers, obvious large corner/roof system.
Protection One or two hand sized pieces, 6 bolts. Two bolt anchor with tat and leaver biners.
Perfect timing to have a shoelace undone?!
| | |
By Nick Barczak Apr 19, 2011
| I've always wondered what this thing was. The steep but juggy climbing feels unusual for Josh. Super fun! Feels about 5.11b. |
By Tommy L-D Apr 20, 2011
| Awesome route, very uncharacteristic for Jtree. Still needs a bit of cleaning up, we loosed quite a few chunks(up to brick sized), would HIGHLY recommend belaying from the ledge on the slab rather than directly beneath the climb, otherwise the belayer might want to bring a helmet. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Jul 18, 2011
| An excellent short video of the climb.
|
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Feb 27, 2012
| Hey Roberto, what do you mean by the bolt came out on you? Did it pull out in a fall? Did it pop out under rope tension on a take? Did the entire bolt plus sleeve and cone pull out? Did the rock blow out? |
By Roberto From: La Jolla, CA Feb 27, 2012
| caughtinside, I was leading when i got the to that bolt i had to push it back into the rock before i could clip it. It was sticking out about an inch and pointing slightly down towards the ground. i clipped it and the piton (which appeared more safe than the bolt, but who knows on old fixed gear). My buddy was cleaning the route and he was able to easily pull the bolt out by hand. So yes, we pulled the bolt out. The bolt hole was much larger than the bolt and the expansion sleeve. It was pretty much just cammed in the hole. So yes, we did pull the bolt, but that bolt was unsafe! Furthermore, there is a hold ready to break above it and IF that bolt pulled it would result in a bad fall onto the slab. If and when that bolt is replaced it should either be placed way above the old placement with a wire extension or glued into the soft rock where it was. The first option would be ideal. If there is major issue with the bolt being pulled I apologize and i would gladly repay the first ascensionist. I prefer that option over someone getting hurt. i hope that helps. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Feb 27, 2012
| Thanks for the explanation, I was just curious how it came out. I think you did the right thing. Hopefully people will see the bolt is missing before they head up! |
By Roberto From: La Jolla, CA Feb 27, 2012
| We took a piece of broken stone and wrote. "Missing bolt" at the base of the climb. I hope people see it. |
By Ryan Kempf From: Boulder, CO May 25, 2012
| The missing bolt on Way of Life has been replaced with the permission of the NPS. There is a new 1/2" bolt close to where the old 3/8" bolt was. The new bolt is in slightly better rock. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware. |
|