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Way Rambo
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Unnamed 
Way Nutter 
Way Rambo 
Wishbone Suspension 

Way Nutter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben F and Micah Dash
Page Views: 4,878
Submitted By: Joe Santambrogio on Oct 1, 2004
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Spring 2012

Description 

The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.

Great shady climb in the am,


Protection 

Camalots #4, 4.5, and 5 all very usefull



Photos of Way Nutter Slideshow Add Photo
Joe Santambrogio
Joe Santambrogio
Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein.
Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein...
Brett demonstrating how it's done.
Brett demonstrating how it's done.
all tubs
all tubs
Comments on Way Nutter Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 1, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 24, 2005

FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring.

By Andrew Klein
Mar 15, 2005

I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK!

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Mar 21, 2005

If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Mar 24, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down.

By brian benjamin weinstein
Mar 24, 2005

Be advised... there is a massive loose block about 30 feet up and a bit to the right of the crack. it's pretty obvious from the ground but when climbing it may be tempting to yard on it. My advice (which I didn't do myself) is to stay in the crack throughout the route.

By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 17, 2008

#6 Camalot was real useful at the top.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 17, 2008

Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have.

By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 6, 2011

You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it.

By Jordon Schaefer
Oct 29, 2012

I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part.

By The Blueprint Part Dank
Dec 1, 2013

Such an awesome little route. Unusual for the Creek, this route has a few really nice hand and footholds to break up the crack climbing. I can't recommend this enough as an intro to OW climbing. I took 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5's and 1 #6 and placed them all. The second #5 is nice for the last moves, but not necessary.

I scratched out a small plaque with the route name and difficulty ("Way Nutter 5.9") and put it at the base so more folks will notice and climb this awesome line. I made the plaque small and somewhat inconspicuous though, many apologies to the First Ascentionist if this plaque is unwanted.