Anna crimping through the crux on her first 5.11 l...
An awesome, steep face route. It is, dare I say, overbolted, making for a safe sport lead and great first 5.11 sport lead for the aspirant. Crux seems to be near the last bolt at the steepening terrain. The last bolt is often skipped by leaders not wanting to pump-out trying to clip it. The route has two anchors--one set accessed from the top for TRing and one set lower for leading.
sweet route, and definitely tightly bolted making for a safe lead. high crux. I was looking to depump, shimmied right, and stemmed to the right wall. I am told this is cheating, I thought it was smart climbing! way cool.
Safe lead? There's a difference between safe lead and overbolted. If you're not getting into the 5.11 grade 'cause you're scared of leader falls, this is your route, baby. Climbs well. Last bolt entirely unnecessary.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Dec 21, 2008 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
This was my first 5.11 lead and even I was a starting to get annoyed with how many bolts I had to clip (I didn't feel bold enough to skip bolts though). Last bolt is definitely more trouble than its worth if you're going for the RP (I wasn't, so I clipped it). Still, this climb shouldn't be maligned merely for the spacing of its bolts; it's a great climb.
By George Perkins From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 4, 2010 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
I like to go past the 1st anchor to the 2nd anchor, as this gives the climb a few more interesting moves. The guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b (I'm not sure it's a letter grade worth, but it is of course harder to continue). If you stop at the first anchor the crux is clipping the chains. The rope drag when TRing off the high anchor is an issue though.
I'm too much of a wuss to skip any bolts, even though they are close enough that Z-clipping can be a concern.
I was surprised by the amount of bolts as well. This was my last climb of the day after leading a bunch of hard things so maybe my rating of 11b is biased with tiredness. I skipped the last bolt since I had no energy left to clip something that is so close to the top anyway.