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Your Mama T 

Wavy Gravy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: UNK
Page Views: 7,624
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Mar 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (199)
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Chris sinking sweet jams on Wavy Gravy

Description 

Way down towards the right end of the Scarface wall (but not quite as far as 'Twitch') lies a sinuous left-facing corner formed by a precarious-looking pedestal with an hourglass shape at the base. It's mostly hands, in some form or other, the whole way, and not very long- maybe 70 feet. Gets great morning sun, a good warm-up.

Protection 

1 #2, 1 #2.5, several #3, 1 #3.5 friends; a couple runners to minimize drag on the waves


Photos of Wavy Gravy Slideshow Add Photo
Carling rounding the final bulge on Wavy Gravy
Carling rounding the final bulge on Wavy Gravy
helpful stem
helpful stem
Dan Leonhard on Wavy Gravy
Dan Leonhard on Wavy Gravy
Liz on Wavy Gravy
Liz on Wavy Gravy
Eddie leading up the gravy.
Eddie leading up the gravy.
Halloween weekend, climbing wavy gravy in a bunny suit.
Halloween weekend, climbing wavy gravy in a bunny ...
Super belay techniques.
Super belay techniques.
beautiful day
beautiful day
in background
in background
first send at The Creek
first send at The Creek
Carling in the final section of Wavy Gravy
Carling in the final section of Wavy Gravy
Conor, warming up on Wavy Gravy. <br /><a href='http://www.GoodLifePhotography.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >goodlifephotography.com</a> <br /><a href='http://tylergates.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >tylergates.blogspot.com</a> <br />ŠTyler Gates
Conor, warming up on Wavy Gravy.
goodli...
Good view of the perfect hand crack on Wavy Gravy, Indian Creek
Good view of the perfect hand crack on Wavy Gravy,...
Tom pulling through the first bulge.
Tom pulling through the first bulge.
Katie Sheehan on the 2nd roof
Katie Sheehan on the 2nd roof
Scott on the first bulge - wavy gravy
Scott on the first bulge - wavy gravy
DK leading though the last bulge. Great warm-up.
DK leading though the last bulge. Great warm-up.
in the distance
in the distance
leopard tights FTW
leopard tights FTW

Comments on Wavy Gravy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2014
By Joe Leonhard
From: Denver, CO
Feb 14, 2006

Fun route, just be careful of the HUGE hollow flake on your left and some loose stuff on top.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

if you hit the massive flake to the left of the route while you are on the ground, you can make the entire wall sound like a bongo drum!
By Laurie Lambe
From: Ridgway, CO
Oct 21, 2006

I think this climb is harder than most people say it is. Maybe it's just my perception but... Imagine doing the roof on Incredible Hand Crack with blue Camalots ...
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is much easier if you stem to the crack out left while climbing the steep sections.
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007

Excellent hands. Led it but it was hard for me through the 2nd roof. Cool climb tho.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Jun 5, 2009

Definately give this a shot if (or, more appropriately, when) you go to Scarface. Great hands and a standout line for the creek.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2009

You can easily place a finger piece in the left crack above the second roof to keep the rope from pushing any pieces back in there.
By Phill T
May 3, 2010

not quite the gimmie I was expecting on it. Both roofs were quite a grunt for me. the first one was on the thin side and the top was on the wide side. Not sure what Dr. Evil is smoking, the left finger crack is offset the wrong way to stem to. Pro, sure, maybe even a gastone, but stemming? not quite.

Also note that it IS possible (if a little sketch) to traverse from the top of Wavy Gravy to set up a line on Mantle Illness nextdoor (lots of fun!). Someone will have to follow and clean it for you, but it protects well and goes at about 9. Lots of loose stuff to kick off so make sure no one is below you.
By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
May 26, 2010

If you traverse right to Mantle Illness, it's extra sketch for your second, as s/he must downclimb onto a ledge with a pile of scree, above the pro, risking a pendulum fall... make sure whoever follows isn't too big a pansy and maybe wears a helmet. Mantle Illness is so worth it, tho.
By slim
Administrator
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

first, sorry for a lengthy dissertation that doesn't really relate to this route... just a quick suggestion for sara ann (and others who find themselves in this type of situation). this is a good candidate for using a lower-out method.

1) clip directly into the Gravy anchor with a sling/daisy.
2) have your partner give you a bunch of slack, like 50 feet for example.
3) tie into the '50 foot point' of the rope, using either a figure 8 on a bight with 2 lockers to your harness, or you can tie a huge doubled back figure 8, which is hard to explain but is better because it doesn't require biners.
4) make sure your partner has you on belay still, and that there isn't a huge amount of slack out.
5) untie from your END of the rope and pass it through your anchor on Gravy, tie knot in end if you want. Pass "25 feet" of it through the anchor point.
6) set yourself up as if you were going to rappel on your two little 25 foot strands.
7) unclip and start rapelling while traversing towards your belayer, who should be taking in the slack in his belay. this will basically keep you on belay on both sides, keep you from swinging, and help you get traversed to a point under your belayer.

with variations of this theme you can get yourself out of a lot of pickles. hope this helps.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Killer climb, super unique chunk of stone. Like everything here, great pro. Nowhere near as hard as IHC....
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 2, 2013

So much fun. Great jams practically throughout. The only real crux I found was the wavy roof. A must do.
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors