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North Side
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Waste Not, Want Not 
Waverly Waster 
Whitney's Excellent Route 
Womb, The 

Waverly Waster 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge
Season: All
Page Views: 2,007
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Aug 18, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Eric Singleton resting up for the crux.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves. It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit. There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left. Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps. The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it??


On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is the next route left of the Menagerie, or the second route on the left after you come up the trail. Look for a line of bolts.


Mostly bolts, but you'll need a handful of TCU's to fill in the blanks. There are a number of spots before the first bolt where decking is a real possibility, and a ledge fall is possible between the 1st and 2nd bolts.

Photos of Waverly Waster Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Singleton crimpin through the crux.
Eric Singleton crimpin through the crux.
Phil Hoffmann on route.  Photo by Adam Johnson.
Phil Hoffmann on route. Photo by Adam Johnson.
Comments on Waverly Waster Add Comment
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By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2010

There was an old ratty sling on the last bolt before the anchors, but this has been updated with a nice shiny fixed draw.

By Eric Singleton
From: Brevard,NC
Oct 23, 2010

Yeh that sling was replaced by Philip Hoffman of Looking Glass Outfitters. Thanks Phil!

By Phoffmann
Apr 9, 2011

That sling was made by Nathan Brown in his garage. Thanks Nathan!

To reduce the "R" factor some, a bomber blue Metolius TCU goes in the horizontal smack dab in the middle of the face about 15' from the ground. The TCU or Red C3 is crucial due to the shape of the crack round it.

By Monkey-sa
Aug 27, 2012

Theres an awesome link up that goes up the first part of this climb (past the bolts) traverse left and finish on Creatures of Waste (5.11+). Five stars, hands down.