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Waverly Wafer 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates & Beverly Johnson 10/70
Page Views: 4,568
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 12, 2007
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Description 

By far, the most classic way to start up the Nabisco Wall!

Get stoked and jam a mellow gold/blue Camalot-sized crack, taking advantage of face holds and stems...Enter the flare pod (#4 C4 Camalot)...If you've been right-side in and got spanked at the top of the pod, then next time try the secret beta of going left-side in...Use good technique or you may still get spanked-hard by the flare but you'll be set up to jam the green Camalot size splitter to the top. A hard size for most anyone to straight-in jam...Get layed and pump it up to the hand jams and then the bolted anchor below B-u-t-t-e-r-b-a-l-l-s.


Location 

Scramble right under Bev's Tower across and up flakes and past a tree to the very base of the big left facing corner and belay...OR...Rope up way lower on a big grassy ledge and lieback up a big flake to the same spot.


Protection 

Red Alien size to doubles of green Camalot to #4 Camalot sizes.



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By Greg Barnes
Dec 10, 2009

This was my first 10c in the Valley - should have gotten on an easy one like Lunatic Fringe!

This route was the first time I can remember blowing a piece of pro - a small hex placed like a stopper on a micro-feature (crack was way too parallel to even think it should hold). And I started climbing mid-'90s, the hex was just because my small rack of cams included a single correct size piece above the flare (and no piece for the flare of course, the "big" cam was hand-size).

By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Wow, what a blast from the past! All I can claim on this one was that I followed a guy in the Navy, who was really strong, back in 1983? I was partnerless and his partner for the day didn't show so he recruited me to follow him on Waverly down in the Camp 4 parking lot. I was two years into climbing myself and was stoked to get a chance to get this exposure!

After getting spooked on the 3-4 class approach, across some grassy ledges, I assumed the position and belayed this guy while he ran it out every 30 or so feet between pieces. I saw the first piece thirty feet up but actually saw that he did this pretty much the entire pitch once I started cleaning!

Yep, I too was spanked by the time I reached the last thirty feet of tips laybacking and had to be, basically, yarded up between every move for my forearms were useless! So useless in fact that he had to untie the rope from my harness once I reached the belay, lol (his partner showed up in the interim so he had to free the rope up in order to throw the rope down to him)! Their original plan was to do Butterballs above, so I sat there, tied off atop Beverly's Tower to decompress while his partner lead the next pitch. I was in no condition, nor with the experience to be following on this next section so I was lowered to get back to terra firma.

The lowering was uneventful until the last fifteen feet or so. With 45 meter (150') ropes the norm back then this proposed a problem. I dangled there for a bit, while something was arranged above (I didn't want to know). Eventually, I began to bounce the last five meters to thankfully gain the belay ledge.

Cool memories!

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of "letter grades". He included a list; Yosemite Free Climb Compared. Only two routes where given as examples of 5.10c liebacks; Waverly Wafer and Powell-Reed.

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

upgraded to 11a in the latest guide, rightfully so I think, that off-fingers lieback is rounded and suuper pumpy.

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Hard for 10c :) Good fun though.