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Wave Yer Wand 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, 1998
Season: Gets afternoon sun
Page Views: 601
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2007
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Description 

Start on the ground a few meters Right of Magic Wand and climb up 3-4 meters to a thin crack (good small nuts), then up a face past small cam placements, then bigger ones. Aim for just left of a solitary small dead tree. After passing this, and just below the top, step left and follow a right-leaning crack with some solid flakes in it to come eye-to-eye level with the anchors on 'Magic Wand' which are just to your left. The last bit is the crux and protects well.

This is the best trad line at the crag and one of the better lines over all.


Location 

This route ascends the face just right of 'Magic Wand' on natural features and protection. The gear is better than it would appear from the ground and does not require runouts or much craftiness.


Protection 

Good gear. Take a light rack from small/med nuts and cams to 3.5"



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By Tradsplatter
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I think this route has good gear. I only used cams, no nuts, and no section felt run-out.