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Wave Rider 

Wave Rider 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Aug 31, 2011
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Description 

Low angle dike climbing with a little friction thrown in for good measure. The direct start begins directly below a thin right flacing flake. The crux is one unprotected friction move to reach the flake. Plug in some small pro, then climb runout, but easy, dikes to the anchor. You can place medium cams in a hidden pod to the right of the dikes.

The original start is farther right at a pine. Head up a crack then traverse left to an old bolt. Continue moving left and up until you can reach the flake mentioned above. The climbing above becomes easier as more dikes appear. Belay at the bolted anchor about 20 or 30 feet right of "Manic Depressive's" crack.

You have two options for the second pitch. Traverse left on dikes and finish "Manic Depressive." Or (more fun) climb up and right across smooth friction to reach a rectangular block. Above this block, follow the finger crack through the small overlaps until upward progress is blocked by a roof. Make an easy traverse left to join "Manic Depressive." The second pitch does not have an "R" rating.


Location 

Follow the ledge right of Knapsack Crack (some 4th class moves) until the ledge widens out. This is the direct start.


Protection 

Thin to medium sized gear. An old 1/4 bolt with a sheet metal hanger protects the original start.



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By Jason Ogasian
Oct 15, 2012

One bolt and the anchor were replaced on this route in 2011 thanks to support from the ASCA.


ASCA.
ASCA.

safeclimbing.org/