Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 5.12 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Charlie Fowler FFA |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Ok, this is purely from memory 13+ years ago....
Dude, where is this route? We were looking at a picture in one of the mags, of John Yablonski on some route, somewhere in Eldo. That's that heinous roof at "The Secret Smoking Lounge"!
Why the "Locals" took him here, I'll never know...I guess he sent everything else.
Anyways, this thing's a totally cool pile! It's 3 or 4 burly-pile power-pulling moves on a couple flexy flakes (you can see light through the hold at the lip) with a hard finger stuff/undercling in a steep roof to be exact. Turn the roof with a cool rock over move and diagonal up and right toward the ramp.
Location This is kind of all by itself in a somewhat hidden alcove, midway above the top of Pickpocket Wall and the underside section of the Lower Ramp where it meets the dirt by Scary Canary.
Protection 2 bolts, nuts and a couple cams to 2".
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