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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension 
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler FFA
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
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  • Description 

    Ok, this is purely from memory 13+ years ago....

    Dude, where is this route? We were looking at a picture in one of the mags, of John Yablonski on some route, somewhere in Eldo. That's that heinous roof at "The Secret Smoking Lounge"!

    Why the "Locals" took him here, I'll never know...I guess he sent everything else.

    Anyways, this thing's a totally cool pile! It's 3 or 4 burly-pile power-pulling moves on a couple flexy flakes (you can see light through the hold at the lip) with a hard finger stuff/undercling in a steep roof to be exact. Turn the roof with a cool rock over move and diagonal up and right toward the ramp.


    Location 

    This is kind of all by itself in a somewhat hidden alcove, midway above the top of Pickpocket Wall and the underside section of the Lower Ramp where it meets the dirt by Scary Canary.


    Protection 

    2 bolts, nuts and a couple cams to 2".



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