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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler FFA
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007

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  • Description 

    Ok, this is purely from memory 13+ years ago....

    Dude, where is this route? We were looking at a picture in one of the mags, of John Yablonski on some route, somewhere in Eldo. That's that heinous roof at "The Secret Smoking Lounge"!

    Why the "Locals" took him here, I'll never know...I guess he sent everything else.

    Anyways, this thing's a totally cool pile! It's 3 or 4 burly-pile power-pulling moves on a couple flexy flakes (you can see light through the hold at the lip) with a hard finger stuff/undercling in a steep roof to be exact. Turn the roof with a cool rock over move and diagonal up and right toward the ramp.


    Location 

    This is kind of all by itself in a somewhat hidden alcove, midway above the top of Pickpocket Wall and the underside section of the Lower Ramp where it meets the dirt by Scary Canary.


    Protection 

    2 bolts, nuts and a couple cams to 2".



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