Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Dude, where is this route? We were looking at a picture in one of the mags, of John Yablonski on some route, somewhere in Eldo. That's that heinous roof at "The Secret Smoking Lounge"!
Why the "Locals" took him here, I'll never know...I guess he sent everything else.
Anyways, this thing's a totally cool pile! It's 3 or 4 burly-pile power-pulling moves on a couple flexy flakes (you can see light through the hold at the lip) with a hard finger stuff/undercling in a steep roof to be exact. Turn the roof with a cool rock over move and diagonal up and right toward the ramp.
This is kind of all by itself in a somewhat hidden alcove, midway above the top of Pickpocket Wall and the underside section of the Lower Ramp where it meets the dirt by Scary Canary.