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Taking Standard Route's direct route (Quarts Pocket), to Wave Length and on to Sliding Board is a great link up and a great way to avoid crowds if you time it right....
Wave Length has some pure friction and some face climbing on it, but even the face climbing feels slippery and a little insecure, so you will thank your sticky rubber.... It is really fun and a must do for fans of the slabs....
Pitch 1: (5.8) From the thread anchor on standard, make one or two moves to clip the first bolt and pull over the bulge.... Head straight up to the next bulge and conveniently the next bolt.... Clip a long draw on the bolt, because you need to head left and get in to the sustained steep stuff and you wont want the rope drag...place a piece or two and make a reachy move to a good pocket and scamper up to the slippery dike...where you will get the pleasure of fine climbing and 3 well placed bolts.... Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor....
Pitch 2: (5.6) Head straight up the slab to and overlap, protect, and run it out up another slippery dike to another 2 bolt anchor (the one below the steep dike pitch on Sliding Board....
Pitch 3: (5.7) This pitch is not always done as the steep dike is really fun; however, the true route heads out right on a slab then back left on another slab until you can use a flake to get over the overlap.... Head up and meet up with sliding board at the comfortable belay ledge....
Wave Length starts at the thread anchor at the top of the arch of Standard Route.... At the thread anchor, look up and you will see the first bolt....
5 bolts and a small trad rack.... Small to medium nuts and cams and a few tricams....
My dad on Wave Length....
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wavelength is a great slab climb that is very well proctected. I generally climb only the 1st pitch and wrap off. Nice climb for anyone looking to advance into 5.8 leading that involves good footwork.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 22, 2012
This is one of the sweetest pitches on the slabs. It's much more thought provoking than most other pitches in the vicinity---not just another smear-fest. The crux move is deviously wonderful (and will feel hard if you're short). Here's a hint: lean left...way left. Nope, even farther...
By Bob A
Sep 3, 2012
My favorite pitch on the slabs.So much fun!