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Lechlinski Crack Formation
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Waugh Crack T 

Waugh Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Waugh
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 1, 2002

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Description 

The Waugh Crack is located on the north face of the Lechlinski Cracks formation and is identified by a thin finger crack. Crank through the thin finger crack with poor feet (crux) right off the deck and continue up to easier ground. Bring a couple of hand size pieces for anchor.

Descend by scrambling off climber's left.


Protection 

Light rack up to a #1 size (red) Camalot, plus a couple of hand size pieces to build an anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 23, 2009
By Murf
Oct 18, 2002

The rating attests to Waugh burlyness!

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 18, 2002

I agree - the opening moves felt more like 10d!

By Josh Beck
Jan 19, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is pretty burly and is strenuous to hang out and protect. Definitely felt harder than .10b to me.

By Josh Beck
Mar 9, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

No one's arguing with Mike Waugh's background. To me this route is harder than either of the Mel Cracks (10c per Vogel, 10b IMHO), harder than Right V Crack (10a per guidebooks but 10c per most people I've talked to and IMHO) and at least as hard as Robert's Crack (10d) if not a bit harder.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 9, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

There was a period of time Mike and friends only rated climbs 5.9 regardless of their true difficulty, something that caused some fun on a certain route out at the Zebra Cliffs that is now rated 5.10d.

It's easy to get bogged down trying to pinpoint a rating sometimes as it depends upon your strength/weakness relative to a particular type of climbing, whether you're having a good or bad day as well as plenty of other variables.

Sometimes it's just easier to be vauge - after all I've heard it said there's only three ratings needed for most routes...5.9+, 5.10d and 5.11c...

By Josh Beck
Mar 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Chris, I completely agree and I don't worry too much about what something's really rated, instead I think about how hard it is for me and how much enjoyment I get out of it. I really enjoy the constant challenge of new routes that push me, no matter what they're graded. However, many friends of mine and I are all working through the grades, trying to improve and get stronger. For the most part we're working on leading a lot of the classic 10+ to 11s at jtree (mostly cracks) and we trade stories, climbs, beta, etc around the campfire or dinner table all the time, so the debates constantly are coming up :) And with Randy asking for ratings comments I think it's worth discussing, sorry if I came off poorly.

As an aside, some friends and I have a new theory that there really is only one grade needed at Woodson: 5.11+ - Uncertainty Principle, Seminar Wall, Go With The Flow, The Cave, Alcoa, Stairway to Heaven, Walking on Air, Kurtains for Certain, Hear My Train Acomin', Driving South, California Night, Hard As Nails, Starving in Stereo, PhD, Mother Superior, The Ogre, Right Long's Crack - pretty much 90% of the classic climbs up there could be argued to be that grade :)

josh

By Murf
Mar 10, 2003

My original comment was just this: Mike is burly.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2003

probably the wrong place for a ratings debate but Chris Miller's 5.9, 5.10a, 5.11c analysis equates (roughly) to 5b, 5c, 6a in UK grades, coincedence?

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 30, 2003

Not 5.10b in my opinion. Grades are built on consensus, and this seems to be heading towards 5.10d.

By Ben Craft
Apr 7, 2003

This route is harder than any 10d in the area or any 11a crack that I've done this season.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 7, 2003

At least 5.15

By Steven Powers
Sep 4, 2003

with the extension i here its a solid 5.15c.... what is the best time of day to check out this formation in the summer time?

By keli
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

great climb!

Definitely 10d

This sucker is stiff right off the deck! Its like 20 feet of non-stop moves.....awesome!