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The Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress T,TR 
Chimney, The T 
Fool on a Hill T,S 
Nose, The T 
Watusi T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Late Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is a varied climb on the Buttress wall, around the corner to the right of the route Buttress. The route wanders up dark colored rock around an obvious roof to a thin face with good crimps. A ramp leads to the ledge at the base of The Nose. Combine both routes for a pumpy 5.9 link up! Watusi is fairly stout at the grade compared to other areas in MA (Farley's, for instance). I found it to be easier than Fool on a Hill (5.9+) but harder than Buttress (5.9).


This is on the Buttress Wall to the right of Buttress route.


Two pins can be found: one at the lower overhang which seems okay and a very questionable pin at the mantle which makes the top of the ramp. The pro is rather scarce, but the route is often led when it is dry.

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By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Decent climbing but very dirty. I found the pro to be adequate but sometimes off to the side; likewise the climbing sometimes moved laterally before going up again, so bring several slings. Especially near the end, the easier line to climb was on left, then moved back right and up to the belay ledge. Birds of Fire, between this and the chimney, provides a nice alternative start.
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