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Davidson Wall
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Watusi T 

Watusi 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jim Waugh
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,648
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

If you are looking for a line which is a little more on the technical side of things, then you just found it. The Watusi (Waugh-tusi?) is a classic dance between 5.12 cranks and small, spacey protection.

To the right of Equalizer. Climb up right facing dihedral to a slender, detached looking pillar just past midheight. Get on top of that and let the fun begin with long, bouldery moves on positive edges. Just when you think its over the bulge at the top will test you one more time.


Location 

Middle of the Davidson wall, next system right of the Equalizer.


Protection 

Small/ medium wires and an assortment of cams.



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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 22, 2007

Lead this yesterday. I would not give this route an R rating. The pro was bomber the entire way. That said, protection for the business section was all small wires and took some thought and time to place. If you are honed at stemming and placement of small wires this pitch is worth an onsight attempt. There is one key nut placement where you have a great handhold but thin stemming for the feet. It was quite exciting. The roof finish is awesome and not as hard as it looks.

By Dean Hoffman
Jun 15, 2008

Just a heads up as of a week or two ago that detatched pillar is about 2 feet shorter. From what I could see the detatched block that was on top of it is sitting at the bottom of the route with a big X on it. Routes not much harder, now when the rest of that detatched pillar goes...

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2008

No shit?! This may make placing some of the small gear a bit harder...

By Dean Hoffman
Jul 15, 2008

Not to sure about that JJ, but Mike S. said it didn't feel much harder

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Huge reach with bad feet.

By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Apr 8, 2010

pillar block is still there but it wobbles a bit!