|291 page views|
|Type: ||Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.7 A3- [details]|
|Submitted By: ||Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010|
Looking down at the follower on P1 of Waterway on ...
An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.
P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)
This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)
P2: (didn't climb)
Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing
Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's