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Central Wall Area
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Davis-Holland Route 
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Technicians of the Sacred 
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Waterway 

Waterway 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A3-

   
Type: Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A3- [details]
FA: 
Season: summer
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010
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Looking down at the follower on P1 of Waterway on ...

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Description 

An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.

P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)

This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)

P2: (didn't climb)


Location 

Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing


Protection 

Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's



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