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Work your way up a wide, well-defined gully on moderate, tiered ice. Trending left seems to have more reliably thick ice but is steeper. Staying right is easier, but often thinner.
This climb makes a decent alternative if there's a circus on Standard Route.
Roughly 100 yards left of Standard Route. Easily visible from the train tracks. You can't miss it.
Screws. Good-sized trees to belay from at the top.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 12, 2012
Careful on this one. For us the ice at the crux was more difficult than it appeared from below.