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Bob D'Antonio stemming the slot below the crux.
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This fun route starts about 75' right of Country Club Crack, on a big boulder in the creek. The boulder is split in two pieces and lies below a steep wall with a roof between two wide slots (First Movement and Route 66).
Wade the creek to get to the boulder, which is large enough that you can stash packs on it, and flat enough to provide a good belay position.
Step left off the boulder onto the main wall and over to the wide slot that is the start of First Movement. Climb a short way up the slot, past an old pin, and work right to a small stance. Place pro in a good finger crack, then step onto the right wall, and make a slippery move up and right to a good edge (crux).
Continue up steep cracks to the top of the headwall. Clip the first bolt and make a difficult high-step mantle move onto the slab (second crux). Continue up the slab past three more bolts to the anchor. Lower back to the big boulder at the start.
Start as for First Movement (aka Sonata Allegro) then go right up thin cracks to a slab.
Gear from small wired nuts to a red Camalot, then four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Long slings and 8 quickdraws.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on.