2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This fun route starts about 75' right of Country Club Crack, on a big boulder in the creek. The boulder is split in two pieces and lies below a steep wall with a roof between two wide slots (First Movement and Route 66).
Wade the creek to get to the boulder, which is large enough that you can stash packs on it, and flat enough to provide a good belay position.
Step left off the boulder onto the main wall and over to the wide slot that is the start of First Movement. Climb a short way up the slot, past an old pin, and work right to a small stance. Place pro in a good finger crack, then step onto the right wall, and make a slippery move up and right to a good edge (crux).
Continue up steep cracks to the top of the headwall. Clip the first bolt and make a difficult high-step mantle move onto the slab (second crux). Continue up the slab past three more bolts to the anchor. Lower back to the big boulder at the start.
Start as for First Movement (aka Sonata Allegro) then go right up thin cracks to a slab.
Gear from small wired nuts to a red Camalot, then four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Long slings and 8 quickdraws.