Water Streak 5.7 X
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Shier |
| Submitted By: | adampeters on Jan 8, 2007 |
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Mike on Water Streak Dec 2008
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This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description On the Left side of Elk Slabs, climb up through a small roof where you can get some gear. Step up and continue up the 'water streak' without pro until you reach the two bolt anchor. Belay from here and then head up and to the left.
Protection gear up to 3" and a few QD's
Keith on Water Streak Dec 2008. It is not as stee...
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Sometimes its all about the angle. Mike Dec 2008 ...
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Almost to the anchors on p1 of this sweet climb.
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Dec 17, 2007
| First Ascent is listed as Kurt Shier and party. |
By Mike Harris DFW
From: DFW, Texas
Mar 28, 2011
| The route description says 120' climb. That is just the first pitch. Which, at that point leaves you in the middle of the slab. Add about another 110' +/- for the second pitch. From the top, rap with two 60m ropes and angle for a ledge to the right then down climb. |
By Jon Wood
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 X
| We were a little sketched out about leading this x rated route with out having seen it up close. So we climbed great expectations and rapped down it after reaching the anchors for it. We discovered it is possible to top rope the first pitch with a 60 meter rope. Climb both pitches of Great Expectations or the Dihedral. Rap down to the first set of anchors, clip in, and set it up. We used standard over the shoulder slings and a few ovals. Gave us some piece of mind our first time up. There is some polish on some of the footholds. It's not a hard route, but very nervy on lead. The second pitch is run out to, but there is a place for a piece about twenty feet from the top where you can put a piece in. I found a great spot for a green tri-cam used as a chock. It's pretty low angle at this point, but I like to feel safe. There's a video on my facebook page if you want to take a look. leftyonenut@hotmail.com |
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 17, 2012
| Not to diminish the head games this route can play on lead. Once you turn onto the slab section, it's easy 5.5-6 climbing to the chains. The X is warranted, but unless your slab technique is near zero, you shouldn't be intimidated by this rewarding lead. |
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