From the cave below the stairs, contine right until you step around the corner above the Basement descent. Locate a bolt on the left (inside) of the arete which goes straight up to a ledge 60' above. Climb around the right side of the gray arete, using the big horizontals on the face and the arete. The bolts may be old, but the climbing above the first bolt is really easy. The exposure is what makes this a classic. Bring small cams to supplement the bolts.
Optional: Continue up to the descent trail via Dragon Pole.
Far right side of the B1 area, before you descend into the Basement
Gear to .75"
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Oct 8, 2012
The first move is the only business, and didn't look to be protectable with gear. The bolts are old, so be sure you aren't going to whip onto this thing, because a fall would be disastrous. The rest of the route is a cruise. The ledge 60' up is awesome, and you can rap from it. The climbing above this is 5.4 at most, with another anchor above, which you can also rap from.