A great wall hidden in the middle of Pinnacle valley. This formation has good steep lines on quality rock. It's biggest drawback is the shortness of the climbs 3 to 4 pitches.
Climbs from Left to Right:
Seventh Sojourn 5.9
Cry for Merlin 5.12b
Approach from the crest via the North Crest Trail. Follow this trail until it veers away from the crest. Stay left following the crest on a minor trail. Follow this trail until the first major limestone band. Just before this drop down over the crest, there will be a cairn marking the trail.
Hike downhill toward Albuquerque for about 10 minutes to a clearing. Follow cairns and climber trails to the first rappel station a large tree set back about 20 feet from the top of the cliff.
1st Rappel, short, best to use a single rope. Head slightly left to a bolted anchor.
2nd Rappel: 140' rappel down to another bolted anchor
3rd rappel: 150' rappel to ground. Best to toss ropes to climber's right and advance the knot a few feet.
EDIT: alternate rappel beta as per Marc R.
You no longer have to do the Seventh Sojourn raps. The new rap route descends the Watchman's Secret. 3-35m (70m rope needed) bolted raps take you to the base. These are clean and quick raps. From the top of the formation simple look skiers left and there is a 15 meter fixed line from 2 pitons down to the first set of anchors. Enjoy
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Alchemy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c NM
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Off the top of the crux pitch of Cry for Merlin, head straight up the orange wall starting out a little left up through a roof and some vertical seams to a ledge out right near the arete. Then more seams head up and trend slightly left into the shallow grove. Finish with a giants staircase to the top of the wall. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Aug 31, 2007
Once at the cliff top, 1st rap continues slightly to the skier's right (climber's left).
On the second rap, 2 out of 3 times I've seen the falling rope jam about 40 feet up. Perhaps pull ropes from climber's left of the anchor?
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 3, 2008
If you are comfortable scrambling about on decent sized ledges, maybe 3-4' wide, you can do the approach rappels on a single 70m rope, you only have to scramble maybe 10-15' to your right and down at the end of the second rappel.
Aug 7, 2011
The US Forest service has done a "great" job obscurring the faint cut off trail that leads to the start of the downhill section of the watch tower trail. Will need to keep a sharp eye for the trail that keeps on the very edge of the crest.
There is now an old metal boundry sign leaned against the large rock marking the start of this trail.
Aug 7, 2011
There is a new bolted route directly below the 1st belay of excalibur clear to the ground. Anyone know the details?
The presence of the fixed rope suggest efforts are still ongoing - perhaps details when it is finished? Thanks
We removed some additional blocks above the roof on P4 of Seven... still some loose stuff there, but the other piches are very solid rock. Check at the damage from the HUGE rockfall between watch tower and Tombstone!
|By John Kear|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 13, 2011
The new route just below Excalibur is the first pitch of watchman's secret. This pitch goes up under excalibur than crosses over underneath heading out right to a bolted belay well right of the excalibur and cry for Merlin's anchors. This first pitch is about 10b/c good and very technical for the grade.
|By Marc Ripperger|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 6, 2011
You no longer have to do the Seventh Sojourn raps. The new rap route descends the Watchman's Secret. (3) 70m bolted raps take you to the base. These are clean and quick raps. From the top of the formation simple look skiers left and there is a 15 meter fixed line from 2 pitons down to the first set of anchors. Enjoy