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GPS: 35.22192, -106.45412
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 24, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

A great wall hidden in the middle of Pinnacle valley. This formation has good steep lines on quality rock. It's biggest drawback is the shortness of the climbs 3 to 4 pitches.

Climbs from Left to Right:
Seventh Sojourn 5.9
Excalibur 5.10d
Cry for Merlin 5.12b

Getting There Suggest change

Approach from the crest via the North Crest Trail. Follow this trail until it veers away from the crest. Stay left following the crest on a minor trail. Follow this trail until the first major limestone band. Just before this drop down over the crest, there will be a cairn marking the trail.

Hike downhill toward Albuquerque for about 10 minutes to a clearing. Follow cairns and climber trails to the first rappel station a large tree set back about 20 feet from the top of the cliff.

1st Rappel, short, best to use a single rope. Head slightly left to a bolted anchor.

2nd Rappel: 140' rappel down to another bolted anchor

3rd rappel: 150' rappel to ground. Best to toss ropes to climber's right and advance the knot a few feet.

EDIT: alternate rappel beta as per Marc R.
You no longer have to do the Seventh Sojourn raps. The new rap route descends the Watchman's Secret. 3-35m (70m rope needed) bolted raps take you to the base. These are clean and quick raps. From the top of the formation simple look skiers left and there is a 15 meter fixed line from 2 pitons down to the first set of anchors. Enjoy

[Rope replaced May 2018; 47 foot section of rope covers the span including the knots: double figure 8 loop ("Bunny Ears") on top and rewoven figure 8 to one bolt flange at bottom.]

8 Total Climbs

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Location: WatchTower Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at WatchTower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Seventh Sojourn
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
Excalibur
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 6
Watchman's Secret
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 4
Cry for Merlin
Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Seventh Sojourn
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Excalibur
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Watchman's Secret
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Cry for Merlin
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in WatchTower »

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