|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Marc Ripperger, Matt Lawry|
|Submitted By:||John Kear on Jun 12, 2011|
|Comments on Watchman's Secret||Add Comment|
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From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Route name clarification: The Watchman's Secret
If you like honest to goodness Sandia adventure climbing, read no further on this comment.
The PG-13 section is 5.8-5.9 climbing before the first bolt on the second pitch. Traversing directly right 8 feet off the belay, you can place a #1 TCU or equivalent. Climbing upwards and slightly right you can place a medium sized nut or two. Looking above you should see the bolts up and to your left (15 or so feet up). The crux protects very well, and could be aided if needed.
Video of Marc's description as well as a look at the rappel is posted below. Unfortunately the wind knocked over the camera before it could record the send. Oh well...
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fun climb. Some notes and pitch-by-pitch ratings to go with the above:
P1: (5.10) Bolts plus supplemental gear. This pitch, or Excalibur's p1 (5.9+), could be used as a start to either route. Both are good; Excalibur is more direct but less interesting, the Watchman's Secret start is harder.
P2: (5.12-) Aim to climb into the L-facing corner you rapped down. It should be obvious, but after the 2nd bolt, don't get lured farther to the right, where there are also bolts for the 5.11+ variation to this pitch (unless you want to do that). The hardest moves are near bolts. But there is still 5.11+ climbing over small nuts, however, if they failed, the highest bolt would prevent catastrophic falls. (If I get more flexible, I'll surely send it next time.) Very cool!
P3: (5.11) All bolted, but you might sneak in another piece or two. This pitch is a gem, but one could also finish on the 5.9 R-facing corner of Cry for Merlin.