Watch the Birdy
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 30'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||??, Surely before Bubb/Arhendt 8/09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces North- late sun only|
|Page Views: ||229|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Aug 9, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
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A pretty good short line with more to it that first meets the eye. A good jam, some locks, edging, a stem, etc....
This climb makes a good warm-up for 'Perfect Hand Crack' and finished just 4 meters right of the base of that climb.
Climb up and into a few good holds and a #3 Camalot placement, then into very good, solid, but somewhat strenuous fingerlocks past stoppers or small cam placements and into more juggy climbing.
The moves are pretty good, but the climb is pretty short.
Down and right below the start of 'Perfect Handcrack' on the lower rock band there is a striking fingercrack that is visible as the rock is approached from the North.
A set of small camps or TCUs and an optional #3 Camalot for the first piece. The belay anchor can be made by placing the rope or a cordalette around a big boulder on a ledge behind the top.