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Watch Crystal
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Watch Crystal Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Steve Wunsch, 1977
Page Views: 4,461
Submitted By: Grant Bryans on May 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Ken Trout and Scott Visscher
Second Free Ascent, F...

Description 

Climb the same start as Simians to the Sun, avoid the belay ledge and then bust up the crack to a two bolt achor.


Protection 

Typical East Animas rack.



Photos of Watch Crystal Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Aid soloing Watch Crystal Crack.
Aid soloing Watch Crystal Crack.
An early free ascent (1979) of the Watch Crystal Crack ....
An early free ascent (1979) of the Watch Crystal C...
Comments on Watch Crystal Crack Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Mar 19, 2007

This is probably (in my opinion) one of the best pitches of climbing in Durango. The crack is splitter, steep, exposed, and on good rock.

By AJ Onsight
From: lakewood
Apr 5, 2007

Fingers #0.3, #0.4 BDs for crux. Fun to do passively as well; it takes stoppers incredibly well.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 5, 2007

I had forgotten about this route and for that matter the rock, but as I recall it's a terrific climb. There's another great climb on this rock that climbs on face holds and holes. I remember the first pitch led you to a small cave or hole in the rock for the belay. I cannot remember the name. Another great climb though.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is freakin' sweet.

By eggman
Oct 11, 2009

Yesterday I drilled 27 2" diameter core samples near or on what climbers are calling the "Watchcrystal Crack" as part of a state funded guano research project. AS nitrogen and ammonia levels are determined, the area will most likely be closed for the next 11-14 weeks. Call Center for Guano Studies information line at 970-946-5727 for up to date news on this closure.

Thanks,

Johnson Eggman, president
Center for Guano Studies, LLC.

By BDergay
From: Eldorado
Aug 29, 2010

Funny stuff, Eggman!
But dood, that's the best pic of Watch Crystal you guys have got? Someone aiding it? Really? Really??

By ozman
From: CO / NM
Aug 21, 2011

This would go strong 11 in Indian Creek.

By Aaron Miller
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

If you do this in two pitches (I'd recommend 1 long 110' pitch), step left at the first belay option, it's a much more comfortable ledge and then you aren't just doing a 35' crux pitch to the upper anchors. It was a little disappointing the way I did it, and I think it would climb nicer in two 55' pitches. Also, watch out for lots of little birds in the back of the crack.

Good, fun climbing.