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Master of Rack T 
Outer Shadow aka Morannon, The T,S 
Waste Knot  S 

Waste Knot  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,189
Submitted By: Kirtis on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Aprox Line


Your time will not be wasted when you climb this route; nor will it be wasted when you climb this route again because it was so dam fun. A steep wandering bolted route that uses a brilliant mix of large jugs and in-cut edges to provide an exhilarating experience. The route never seamed run out and was supper fun all the way to the top. My friend accidentally spelled the route like this Waist Knot ?? :) The bolt line can be challenging to spot but there are two little bushes growing out on this route.


On the SE corner of Tower of Teeth


8 bolts an an optional #1 master cam
Bonus Beta: extend every bolt other wise suffer from rope drag

Photos of Waste Knot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on waste not
Me on waste not

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By B. Climbin'
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe the credit for the "official first accent" for this route has been lost to the annuals of time. However, an "updated" first accent can probably be credited to Darryl Stisser and Reggie Walters.

I also believe that this is one of those Black Hills climbs that falls into the category of "If you only have time for one climb at (insert location/at this grade) make it this one." THIS ROUTE IS SICK!
By aschwartz
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is spelled Waste Knot.
By Dave Molash
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I love the optional #1 mastercam for protection. Beware of breaking rocks when pulling the rope down! ^_^
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt.
By R.Walters
Sep 10, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Regarding the 'official fa' of this route:

In 2010, Daryl and a friend, Archer, went up to check out this mysterious thing that had a single, black hanger visible from the ground and led into seemingly unknown territory (this black spinner still remains as the first clip on WK). When they led out above that bolt, they found two additional studs above. These were replaced with modern hardware, from stances. It was never clear to me why this route was abandoned or by whom, though I suspect it was possibly because it may have partially intersected or treaded closely to the Master of Rack line. I'm sure there is someone out there who has more details, though we may never know. It has always been unclear to me what line was taken by Bein on the FA of MOR and whether the name was applied in jest for what might have essentially amounted to a solo of unprotected face climbing.

A short while later, Archer invited me to join the effort and after some contemplation, we went back and 4th-classed to the top of Ephel Duath and installed anchors and rappelled down to search for additional abandoned studs, assuming we would be re-installing a route. However, we found no more studs in the rock. We had now treaded into a strange grey area where we had seen the potential route and features from the top down. At this point, we pulled the rope and finished the route in what we deemed to be the best possible style: ground-up from stances with a couple of hooks but with the benefit of general foreknowledge about the above terrain due to our top-down search for pre-existing studs.

Archer and I finished bolting the route in August 2010, alternating belaying/drilling and breaking several holds from what seemed to be pristine Needles granite as we forged upward. Drilling the penultimate bolt on Waste Knot from a strange, backstep free stance remains as my most memorable 30 minutes in ~10 years of climbing and gave me a profound respect for the folks who exercised these tactics on far more difficult rock during this area's colorful past. It also gives me a ton of respect for the visionary folks who continue to apply this ground-up ethic and good style to develop the futuristic routes that have gone up in recent years (the Needles Renaissance Period, perhaps). Though I'm happy to have made a very small contribution to the area, this will likely be the only route I help to establish in Custer State Park. There are so many adventures out there waiting, where we can stand on the shoulders of giants like the Conns, Muehl, Piana, Archbold, Bein, Devine, deLannoy, Kamps, Goldstone, Horning, Page, and so many countless others. Hats off to them and to those who continue to seek to revisit their routes and adventures, as well as routes and adventures of their own. I will spend the rest of my life visiting this area and will never come close to seeing it all or climbing it all.

Apologies for the long-winded, unsolicited comment; I just wanted to put this up for posterity and partially in response to B's comment above. It sounds like this route has been received positively from my viewpoint, and has seen a decent amount of traffic which is pretty cool. If anyone has any qualms with the route or the 'grey area' style in which it was developed, feel free to contact me via pm. I'd be happy to chat.

'official fa':
D. Stisser, A. Archer, R. Walters 2010

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