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 ADVANCED
New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

Wasp 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch and Rab Carrington, 1972
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Jan 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Exciting and fun climb just right of New Diversions. The route follows steep and smallish chickenheads for quite a while before merging with New D near the top of it's second pitch. Very interesting and delicate climbing in spots. Seemed very sustained and perhaps hard for the grade.

Location 

Starts in the gully just right of New D, following the very steep face/arete up and left. Rap from the top of the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions or head up one easy short pitch to the top and a walk off left.

Protection 

The gear is mostly slung chickenheads, and some times these are thin and potentially friable. Best not to take any big falls and/or consider use of screamers if climbing at your limit. I recall some wired nuts and perhaps other small gear, but the chickenheads were key.


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By JoeS
Sep 29, 2011

Steve,
I just noticed that you had posted this route today when I clicked on a photo of New Diversions. I still remember doing this route with you way back in the day. A good climb and I definitely recall that the nature of the climbing keeps one focused.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 29, 2011

There is a rumors that this climb is a big sandbag. Did not climbed it , but I like humor in Don Reid book - this one rated there as 5.9d
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Mar 30, 2013

I only slung two chickenheads. The corner takes good small gear the whole way and you have comfortable stances to place it from. This is assuming you take the variation that escapes left around the arete to join New Diversions at the hanging flake above the p1 anchors. The topo also shows a direct finish that continues straight up the thin corner after the knobs run out. The direct finish looked harder than 5.9 and you will probably want extra small gear and micro cams.