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 ADVANCED
Cyclops Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Rocks Remembered S 
Cyclops S 
End Play S 
Forearm Smash T 
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 
Piranha S 
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 
Sobriety S 
Suicide Squeeze S 
Unknown TR 
Urban Chunks S 
User Friendly S 
Wasp Mentality S 
Work Ethic S 

Wasp Mentality 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,152
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Apr 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Description 

A pretty great climb that has a couple surprisingly difficult moves. You can make it a little easier by climbing pretty far right, there is a big edge over there that you can reach the bolt way far left from about 15 feet up, but it's more fun and a little more difficult to try to go straight up. After you nail the crux by snagging the huge flake undercling halfway up it's basically over. A worthy climb-- at least as classic as Annadonia, which gets a lot more traffic.

Be sure to bring your beekeeper's suit and a can of RAID.

  • RCM&W #4, p.115


Location 

From the top of the approach trail, take the left where the trail forks. The furthest left bolted wall is the Cyclops area. This climb starts a few feet left of Cooler Crack, next to the tree, climb the line of bolts to the anchor below the birch tree.


Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.



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By Ian Harmon
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 19, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A fun route. The rock is very sharp and the climbing is fairly sustained. Mind the wasps in the namesake bomber undercling about halfway up. The route eases up a bit after either being stung by or avoid the wasps.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Best to do in the spring or late late fall (post-freeze). Not often done, but very fun.