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Wasp Arete 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Brian Derrig
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Clint Walker ATX on Mar 25, 2013
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Description 

Route starts under 45-degree nose. Gain the obvious hold then start up the lower nose with some rather sequency moves. Lower moves are V4. Fluid movements from here with a cryptic.

It's called Wasp Arete for a reason. Watch out for small wasp nests near the 3rd bolt along the underside of the small ledge features here.


Location 

Located on the left area of the main wall. Logical arete feature with 45-degree nose at bottom and smaller nose near top. Chains are short, one-link pieces.


Protection 

First bolt is a little sketchy given exposed position. Bring a pad or stick clip the first for added protection on the start. Two remaining bolts are safe.

EDIT: This route is still chipping due to the flakyness of the stone and now appears to have lost a few of its more decent holds. The first bolt used to have a pretty good rest-hold that is now missing. The second bolt is still "safe" but given the frequency of chipping I bet that doesn't last long. The third bolt now feels much much harder to reach as well. Consider top roping this route by either climbing the 10b to the left of it or walking to the top and tossing the rope over.



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By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Sep 3, 2013

Due to the chossy nature of this area this route is on its way to becoming unclimbable for the greater majority of people who venture here. Many of the better holds have chipped away and many more are soon to follow. This route feels much more desperate now - likely much harder now than 12b.