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Snoqualmie Pass
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Tooth - South Face, The 

The Tooth - South Face 

5.4

   

FA: Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison - 1916
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, Grade II
Season: Summer
Views: 325 page views

Submitted By: Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The Tooth


Description 

Approach:
Summer - Hike up the main trail, until a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which avoids losing elevation, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.

Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until below the east face of The Tooth. Do not follow the summer path, since there is significant avalanche danger there.

The final approach involves scrambling up to the notch one south of Pineapple Pass then contouring around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.


Protection 

Light Alpine Rack - up to #3 Camalot



Photos of The Tooth - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
starting the link up of the first two pitches

starting the link up of the first two pitches

leading up the second pitch - possibly the best moves on the climb

leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...

South face is the left side of the Tooth in this photo.

BETA PHOTO: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...

Half-way up third pitch (looking down).

BETA PHOTO: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).